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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Davis, Chis Grover, 1979
Page Views: 2,436 total, 17/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This enjoyable dihedral route involves diverse climbing with a crux near the start. The upper section eases off some, but remains interesting.

Location

Wildfire Wall (South side of the Crooked River)

Protection

Gear to 3 inches with wires/small cams.

Photos

iryna
eugene, or
  5.10a/b
iryna   eugene, or
  5.10a/b
lots of face holds and rest spots. great climb. i dont think it favors tall people. i'm 5' 2'' and i didnt struggle. the start is tricky and begs for a bad fall, just be careful getting on it. Aug 17, 2015
Muscrat

  5.10a/b
Muscrat    
  5.10a/b
Yes, much easier for those who can reach high in the start. I clipped high for the start (ugly ground fall potential) and off to the races. 5.9 for those over 6'2", 10.b+ for those under 5'6"! Yet another fun gorge route! Dec 13, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
If you're better at face climbing, this might feel easier than Gruff. If you're better at jamming, then Gruff is easier. The gear is much more plentiful and larger on Gruff.

You can also continue past the chains into the new "Gruff Plus" extension after leading Rim Job. See the Gruff page for a description of the extension. Just make sure you clip your last piece on Rim Job with a sling. Oct 22, 2014
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
I thought this line was better and quite a bit easier than Gruff next door. Its a series of thoughtful moves punctuated by great rests before the next move. slammer hands for the top 1/3 to the chains. Lots of bird evidence tho. Jun 14, 2012
cerickson
Portland, OR
  5.10b
cerickson   Portland, OR
  5.10b
This climb is basically 5.9+ or 5.10- with the first twenty feet or so being a more solid 5.10. Two or three times I felt pretty advantaged being taller (6'2) though, especially at the beginning... Sep 18, 2010
rpc
 
rpc  
 
Easier for tall folks (I'm over 6'); my wife at 5'3" had a tougher time on this one. One or two thin moves, then a good jug/rest. Mar 12, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
This climb is just left of Gruff and shares the anchors via an easy traverse at the top. The climbing is well protected and enjoyable. Short, tricky moves are separated by big rests. May 20, 2007