Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Wally Fox (8/30/14)
Page Views: 639 total · 12/month
Shared By: Wally Fox on Sep 8, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

After looking at the seam above Bad Finger for years I decided to give it a go because Forrest Kaye was going for it on other extensions in the Gorge. The seam will lead you to a corner. Once in the corner you can pull some big moves through the roof and mantle the "pool table".

Location

The route is above Bad Finger, climb up and left until you are stemming on the bad finger and on the road columns. From hear you follow the seam and corner to the roof.

Protection

The extension will take two purple Metolius, 1 or 2 #2 ball nuts, and nuts. Anchor and chains at the top. Pulling the final roof and mantling is heads up as you are climbing above your nuts.

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Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
In addition to the mantel being heads up, make sure to runner your gear! I didn't and all my little off-set wires fell out before I pulled the move... Sep 8, 2014
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
 
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
 
Great addition to the lower gorge. Thanks for putting it up. Aug 2, 2015
ForrestKaye  
 
I feel most comfortable when I climb above my nuts. Jun 19, 2016
Wally Fox
Bend, OR
  5.11-
Wally Fox   Bend, OR
  5.11-
Sweet Nathan! Glad you got on it! I've been wondering if I should put a bolt on it or leave it how it is? The bolt would ensure a bit more safety but keeping it a gear route has value too. Jun 30, 2016