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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Wally Fox (8/30/14)
Page Views: 535 total, 13/month
Shared By: Wally Fox on Sep 8, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

After looking at the seam above Bad Finger for years I decided to give it a go because Forrest Kaye was going for it on other extensions in the Gorge. The seam will lead you to a corner. Once in the corner you can pull some big moves through the roof and mantle the "pool table".

Location

The route is above Bad Finger, climb up and left until you are stemming on the bad finger and on the road columns. From hear you follow the seam and corner to the roof.

Protection

The extension will take two purple Metolius, 1 or 2 #2 ball nuts, and nuts. Anchor and chains at the top. Pulling the final roof and mantling is heads up as you are climbing above your nuts.

Photos

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Wally Fox  
 
Sweet Nathan! Glad you got on it! I've been wondering if I should put a bolt on it or leave it how it is? The bolt would ensure a bit more safety but keeping it a gear route has value too. Jun 30, 2016
ForrestKaye  
 
I feel most comfortable when I climb above my nuts. Jun 19, 2016
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
 
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
 
Great addition to the lower gorge. Thanks for putting it up. Aug 2, 2015
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
In addition to the mantel being heads up, make sure to runner your gear! I didn't and all my little off-set wires fell out before I pulled the move... Sep 8, 2014