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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Ken Currens & Paul Landrum 3/75
Page Views: 3,263 total, 23/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Good warm up crack climb.
Start with a traverse from the right or a direct start into a shallow dihedral with a thin hands and finger crack to a bolted anchor.

Location

Wildfire area

Protection

standard rack to 2.5"

Photos

the professor
  5.10a
the professor  
  5.10a
I agree with Watt's description that Gruff has the most locking jams you'll likely ever find. Great route. May 21, 2016
Brian Martin
Bend, OR
 
Brian Martin   Bend, OR
 
I give it two stars because it is good. Not great and certainly not classic. Especially with badfinger right there I would just skip this altogether if not for the easy grade. Personally I thought this was harder than Badfinger. The direct start was easier for me at 5'8" but the hardest part was the Awkward jams all the way up. I got maybe 2 hand jams and the rest was fingers, tips, and rattly fingers. A few thumbsacks broke it up and a couple no hands rests eases as well. Overall though, even on top rope, this was harder for me than quasar, cruel sister, and badfinger. Jul 18, 2015
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
  5.10a
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
  5.10a
How do people give this 2 stars? This is a beautiful fun climb, great rock and great flow. I first did this climb 20 years ago and notice that it is now 40 year birthday of the FA this month.

The extension was done at least as early as 1998, probably earlier and had a temp gear anchor '98-2001 ish. I saw folks doing it in '98, I was certainly not the first. Mar 1, 2015
Muscrat

  5.10a
Muscrat    
  5.10a
This is a great route to break into 10's in the gorge, it simply eats up gear. I have intro'd more people to 'the next level' on this route. But please be nice, don't take 2 hours on it! (Yes, i have seen it) Dec 13, 2014
Sam Bedell
Bend, OR
Sam Bedell   Bend, OR
I did the Gruff Plus extension this past weekend. The ledge scrambling and birdshit detracts from it, but the overhanging moves are really fun and straight forward. I placed a #3 and an overcammed #1 camalot but a #2 and a 0.75 would probably be ideal. I would rate it 5.10a relative to other gorge routes. If your goal is to just warm up for more cracks it's probably not worth your time, but if you like easy overhung climbing or have already done Gruff and want to do something different in that grade range I highly recommend it. Sep 7, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10a
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10a
The "Almost to the top" photo shows the extension very well. Aug 31, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10a
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10a
Probably the easiest of the Wildfire/Catwalk 10a's in the Lower Gorge, this climb is a very often climbed warmup classic.

And now, there is a 10m extension on it as well that goes at about 10b! We're referring to it as "Gruff Plus."

From the top of Gruff traverse right 10 feet on very easy moves past some very old petrified birdshit (you don't need to touch any of it, but you will climb near it) to come up under the base of a left-facing handcrack roof. Pull through the roof on handjams and liebacks with tons of bomber gear. Definitely one of the easier roof handcracks you will find, and pretty straightforward considering how steep it is.

A couple handsized pieces (two #2s or a #2 and a #3), and something in the yellow or orange Mastercam range protect the roof perfectly.

Two bolts and chains are there right after you pull the roof. A 60m rope gets you down with a couple meters to spare. It is extremely difficult to clean the gear on rap/lower, so probably best to have a follower clean. You can also easily TR Wildfire and or Crime Wave from the new higher anchors. Aug 31, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a
This route crushed me. Obviously I need to refine my pure crack skills. This is a fine test of how you will do in the Lower Gorge: if you cruise it, you'll have a great time. If you don't, well, that golden tuff is full of bolts.

For gear: a lot of medium nuts, doubles in 0.6-1" (yellow Metolius, purple C4). Nothing bigger than #2. Jul 29, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Great fun. Good hands to a thin hands crux. Some #0.75 Camalots work well here. Then continue up to a funky mantle-into-tips-crack move. Conservative rack includes doubles to from thin to #2 Camalot, consider 3 in the #0.5 Camalot size range. Oct 22, 2006