Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Alan Watts, Mike Puddy, October 5, 1983
Page Views: 579 total · 7/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Sep 6, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Easy climbing up the opening dihedral eventually leads to a small roof created by a hanging column. Step right around the roof on good holds and commit to the thin corner above. Expect the usual blend of sequency, insecure stemming and small gear typical of Lower Gorge 5.11.

Location

In between Iron Cross (R) and Badfinger (L)

Protection

Gear 3" (heavy on the thin cams and RPs)

Photos

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Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
 
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
 
The Watt's Guide suggests that the jams are painful, I would not let that stop you from trying this climb. There is one pocket like jam that is a little painful, but the continuous movement of the upper dihedral is high quality as is the rock. This route is maybe one notch less classic than other Wildfire classics like On the Road and Crime Wave but certainly worth doing. TRs easily with a finger sized cam or nut at the top of the dihedral. Sep 13, 2013