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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Alan Watts, Kent Benesch, Oct 28, 1983
Page Views: 502 total, 10/month
Shared By: Johnny Y on Oct 24, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Stem and jam your way up to an obvious flake, then perform some funky stem sequence to get to an easier stembox (crux), follow the crack to the top as it goes from hand to fist.

Location

The obvious corner between Badfinger and On The Road

Protection

Watts guide says gear to 3", the top section widens up to 4", though it's short. However it would be useful to have something there to protect a thin traverse to the On The Road anchors. I continued up to the top of the pillar and traversed on good jugs, then downclimbed into the anchor on good hand crack

Photos

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Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10d
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10d
Very thin pro at the crux, but not actually dangerous. If you have a weak left shoulder, this might be one to avoid - very shouldery move at the crux.

A good variation is to climb "Soft Finger," where you do the first half of Soft Touch through the crux, then traverse right 6 feet at the horizontal rail, and climb through the high quality top of Badfinger. Doesn't make the route really any harder, but you avoid the wide climbing on sharp rock with some birdshit which is the second half of Soft Touch.

If you want to TR this route, do it from the Badfinger anchor, not from the On The Road anchor. Aug 31, 2014