Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jess Groseth
Page Views: 156 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jess Groseth on Jul 20, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The second easiest way to this anchor, hence the name. Climb the continuously bouldery lower 5 bolts of Body Karate to the no-hands rest. From there, go straight up on the upper half of Bold Line. Climbing an easy 5.10 handcrack sure feels nice when your alternatives on either side are 5.12s with heinous cruxes!

Location

Just right of White Trash - shares the start with Body Karate, but then follows the path of least resistance up the crack.

Protection

Bolts for the first half, #2 - #4 Metolius cams for the second half

Photos

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Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Calling the upper half a handcrack is pretty misleading. You could place maybe 1 #1 and the rest is small to medium cams. You could also clip the bolts on either the route to the left or the right while climbing it, so I guess discussing what size gear to bring is academic. Jun 13, 2018