Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Crit Conrad, Alan Watts
Page Views: 260 total · 14/month
Shared By: CritConrad on May 16, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

An awesome new variation to "Edge of the Road". Start by doing the entire crux sequence of On the Road to about the half way mark on that route. Put a runner on your last piece of gear and move up and left on good holds to a stance on the arete. From here, get ready to execute hard and sometimes funky moves at every bolt. Great stances allow casual clips, but the movement in between is difficult and sometimes perplexing.

Above the last bolt you can place a small wire or ball nut to take a little sting out of the last moves. Everything culminates in a pumping sequence to and through a small crack (which is also your last gear) before easy terrain to a new anchor on a pedestal about 10 feet up and left of On the Road's Anchor

Location

Start as for On the Road and finish on a new 2 bolt anchor above

Protection

Gear to .5 inches, possibly 3 in the .5 camalot/orange metolius size. Optional blue ball nut or small offset nut, and 3 bolts.

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
Super fun variation! I forgot to bring gear for the top and grabbed On the Road for the very last hard move to the pod. Felt 12a-ish that way. It would be pretty contrived to avoid the hand jam as the sequence orients your body such that the crack is right there. Sep 18, 2017