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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad
FA: coming soon
Page Views: 2,638 total, 19/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on May 2, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Another good 5.10 in the lower gorge...
This one has nice variety and pleasant moves.

Start by clipping a bolt and making a tricky move to get situated in the stem box. Work up through more moderate climbing to a stemming crux at the top.

Location

1st route left of Pure Palm

Protection

Nuts and cams to 1.5".

Photos

Muscrat

  5.10b
Muscrat    
  5.10b
I always find the traverse at the start freaky; doable, but heart in mouth. And yes, a blue alien just when you need it. Fun warm up route. The fall at the top is clean, i don't worry too much about fiddling with gear where it gets really thin. A WC zero yellow works high, if you want it. Fun line. Dec 13, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
Update as of Oct, 2014:

No birdshit on this climb at all.

Watch the flexing flake at about 20' off the deck. If you put a nut behind it while hanging on it the nut will get extremely wedged and might require a hammer to get out since your weight will be flexing the flake when you place. Probably better to put a piece slightly lower.

Three BD .5 sized pieces are nice.

You can easily reach the chains on The Caning (12b) to the left of Cornercopia from the anchor. You can also sneak over right to setup a TR on top of Pure Palm, although that is a harder traverse. Oct 11, 2014
Joel Sprenger
Terrebonne, OR
Joel Sprenger   Terrebonne, OR
Great climb. Fell at the top just below the anchors, it gets kind of weird up there. Apr 29, 2008
rpc
 
rpc  
 
Seems to have 2 distinct cruxes as mentioned - getting past the bolt at the bottom & getting the anchors (2 moves at top). The bird shit has been cleaning up nicely over the past year. Mar 25, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Cranking move past the bolt.... but a small alien goes in right when you need it. Expect a sting-in-the-tail reaching the anchors! Although it is mostly small pro, there is a nice place for a #2 Camalot. Oct 22, 2006