Type: Trad
FA: coming soon
Page Views: 2,866 total · 19/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on May 2, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


70 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Another good 5.10 in the lower gorge...
This one has nice variety and pleasant moves.

Start by clipping a bolt and making a tricky move to get situated in the stem box. Work up through more moderate climbing to a stemming crux at the top.

Location

1st route left of Pure Palm

Protection

Nuts and cams to 1.5".

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Cranking move past the bolt.... but a small alien goes in right when you need it. Expect a sting-in-the-tail reaching the anchors! Although it is mostly small pro, there is a nice place for a #2 Camalot. Oct 22, 2006
rpc
Portland, OR
 
rpc   Portland, OR
 
Seems to have 2 distinct cruxes as mentioned - getting past the bolt at the bottom & getting the anchors (2 moves at top). The bird shit has been cleaning up nicely over the past year. Mar 25, 2008
Joel Sprenger
Terrebonne, OR
Joel Sprenger   Terrebonne, OR
Great climb. Fell at the top just below the anchors, it gets kind of weird up there. Apr 29, 2008
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
Update as of Oct, 2014:

No birdshit on this climb at all.

Watch the flexing flake at about 20' off the deck. If you put a nut behind it while hanging on it the nut will get extremely wedged and might require a hammer to get out since your weight will be flexing the flake when you place. Probably better to put a piece slightly lower.

Three BD .5 sized pieces are nice.

You can easily reach the chains on The Caning (12b) to the left of Cornercopia from the anchor. You can also sneak over right to setup a TR on top of Pure Palm, although that is a harder traverse. Oct 11, 2014
Muscrat

  5.10b
Muscrat    
  5.10b
I always find the traverse at the start freaky; doable, but heart in mouth. And yes, a blue alien just when you need it. Fun warm up route. The fall at the top is clean, i don't worry too much about fiddling with gear where it gets really thin. A WC zero yellow works high, if you want it. Fun line. Dec 13, 2014