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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Rich?
Page Views: 896 total, 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This devious line lurks just right of Out of Darkness (5.11a/b). Begin as for Try to be Hip and Out of Darkness, clipping the first bolt (shared by all three routes. Traverse up and right with relative ease to the arete and the 3rd bolt The first cruxy section comes moving past the 5th bolt, where two potential options will appear viable from below. Strenuos liebacks and underclings complimented by insecure feet lead to a good shake before the final upper crux, near the convergance with Out of Darkness. More sidepulls and crimps lead to a final powerful move to good jugs and the anchor.

Location

Immediately right of "Out of Darkness", or the first fully bolted line right of "Try to Be Hip"

Protection

Bolts. The anchor on this route is shared with Out of Darkness, and could be improved. Currently it consists of two good bolts joined by several layers of tat, and three aluminum rap rings. Four quick links or two 8" lengths of chain and two quick links would make this anchor much better.

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I added a bolt so that the direct line described in the guidebook can now be lead without stick clipping a ridiculously high first bolt! It adds a hard boulder problem and probably ups the grade to 12b. Jul 14, 2017
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
This one seems bolted silly. First couple bolts are fine, but getting from the 3rd to the 4th seems poorly bolted. There is a perfect stance when you're already looking at a slightly nasty fall, but instead you need to run it out for maybe 3 more very tenuous moves to clip. Then the rest of the route has a bolt like every 4 or 5 feet.

Also, the anchor has been updated and is in good shape Jun 18, 2017
Great climb. Technical and brilliant boulder moves separated by stances.

The only blemish on the pitch is that the top section is climbed to the left of the bolts, using a few holds shared with the 5.11 on the left. It would be possible to just complete the pitch via the left line, which would be easier (and would require some gear). May 22, 2017
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
This one's probably closer to bouldery 12b. It's got 2-3 powerful sequences interspersed with good rest followed by one really angry move. After that there are still some more punchy sequences to get to the chains. You can pretty much always stop and get it back, but the movement is overall much more sustained and powerful than the various other routes of the grade. May 30, 2016
This one is getting some attention currently - it seems to be in a drip line so unless people continually get on it, it will get dirty again. I agree with it being in the range of the hardest of the 12a's down there as the crux is cryptic and hard (any have beta?). Once the beta is sussed - not to shabby! Apr 21, 2015
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I gave this one 3 stars because 1) the holds were covered with dirt when I did it (due to neglect), and 2) it just wasn't that fun. It was super challenging, and I felt great about my effort when I finished, but unlike Try to Be Hip, I didn't enjoy much of the movement while I was actually doing it. Also, the route seemed to bolted either for a 6'4" climber, or for a pre-hung draws, as nearly every bolt was about 6" too far to clip from the obvious stance.

Otherwise the rock was stellar.

This one seems to me to be the hardest of the bolted 12a's on the west side (compared to TTBH, WT, FCP). Mar 20, 2007