Type: Sport
FA: TR: Chuck Buzzard 11d version: John Rich 1989, 12b: unknown
Page Views: 1,101 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Oct 1, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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This colorful route had fallen dusty by the time we had found it. Our start was essentially right between the two noted in Watts's Guidebook, about 3 ft left of first bolt. Head up to a lieback feature, which can be chimneyed. Good edges pull onto the first face until bolt 3 or 4, where a strenuous mantel allows you to traverse right into the corner. If you can get through the first few moves in the corner it gets progressively easier finishing on fantastic patina-like jugs. Like any true 11d at Smith expect solid 5.12 climbing(about as hard as White Trash or T2BH), but the intimidating climbing under the first bolts deters many.


Bolt line between White Trash and Just Say No/Try to Be Hip


8 bolts to two brand new (2014) anchor bolts. Stick clip required.


Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
Update October 2014: John Rich just went back up this and replaced the terrifying ancient webbing on top with big shiny chains and checked all the bolts as well as brushing everything down. The route is in great shape right now. Go get on it! Oct 22, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
This thing is really good! When I did it it was covered in dust, cobwebs and bat feces, but climbs really well once cleaned it up. It should get more traffic to keep it clean! I think it's easier than both White Trash and Try to be Hip, so 11d makes sense to me. I think you could reasonably not stick clip it if you placed a small cam in the horizontal, but you should really just stick clip it.

In the guidebook it says there's a 12b variation that comes in from the right. I asked John Rich about that today and he said that Watt's TR'd it years ago, but it may not have been led. Looking at the holds over there, I'm fairly sure that 12b is a total sandbag. (but haven't actually tried it) Jun 16, 2018