Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bold Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: TR: Chuck Buzzard 11d version: John Rich 1989, 12b: unknown
Page Views: 1,006 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Oct 1, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This colorful route had fallen dusty by the time we had found it. Our start was essentially right between the two noted in Watts's Guidebook, about 3 ft left of first bolt. Head up to a lieback feature, which can be chimneyed. Good edges pull onto the first face until bolt 3 or 4, where a strenuous mantel allows you to traverse right into the corner. If you can get through the first few moves in the corner it gets progressively easier finishing on fantastic patina-like jugs. Like any true 11d at Smith expect solid 5.12 climbing(about as hard as White Trash or T2BH), but the intimidating climbing under the first bolts deters many.

Location

Bolt line between White Trash and Just Say No/Try to Be Hip

Protection

8 bolts to two brand new (2014) anchor bolts. Stick clip required.

Photos

Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
Update October 2014: John Rich just went back up this and replaced the terrifying ancient webbing on top with big shiny chains and checked all the bolts as well as brushing everything down. The route is in great shape right now. Go get on it! Oct 22, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.11d
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.11d
This thing is really good! When I did it it was covered in dust, cobwebs and bat feces, but climbs really well once cleaned it up. It should get more traffic to keep it clean! I think it's easier than both White Trash and Try to be Hip, so 11d makes sense to me. I think you could reasonably not stick clip it if you placed a small cam in the horizontal, but you should really just stick clip it.

In the guidebook it says there's a 12b variation that comes in from the right. I asked John Rich about that today and he said that Watt's TR'd it years ago, but it may not have been led. Looking at the holds over there, I'm fairly sure that 12b is a total sandbag. (but haven't actually tried it) Jun 16, 2018

More About Lion of Judah

Printer-Friendly