Type: Sport
FA: TR: Chuck Buzzard 11d version: John Rich 1989, 12b: unknown
Page Views: 1,335 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Oct 1, 2012
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

This colorful route had fallen dusty by the time we had found it. Our start was essentially right between the two noted in Watts's Guidebook, about 3 ft left of first bolt. Head up to a lieback feature, which can be chimneyed. Good edges pull onto the first face until bolt 3 or 4, where a strenuous mantel allows you to traverse right into the corner. If you can get through the first few moves in the corner it gets progressively easier finishing on fantastic patina-like jugs. Like any true 11d at Smith expect solid 5.12 climbing(about as hard as White Trash or T2BH), but the intimidating climbing under the first bolts deters many.

Location

Bolt line between White Trash and Just Say No/Try to Be Hip

Protection

8 bolts to two brand new (2014) anchor bolts. Stick clip required.

Photos