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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Wayne Arrington 1973
Page Views: 1,046 total, 11/month
Shared By: Bob Graham on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of the best off-widths in the lower gorge. A squeeze chimney start leads to a hand crack that continues to grow to about 9 inches.

Location

left of on the road

Protection

some small gear and then hand to 8-9" pieces

Photos

Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10b PG13
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10b PG13
Definitely not 5.9. Watts guide says its 10b, which I think is fair. The hardest of the offwidths down in the Lower Gorge.

Also, if all you have is a #6 Camalot for big gear, then you're going to be running it out maybe 25' to the anchors. You could place a bigbro above that, although it gets more secure as it gets wider and turns into a squeeze.

The top has birdshit on it, but I suspect that if you're into 10b OW thats a bit spicy, you won't mind climbing through a few feet of birshit smeared rock.

There is a separate set of anchors for this climb up and to the left of the On The Road anchors. It is easy to access them from the top of On The Road. The bolts are old, but seemed ok as of spring 2014. The bolts are placed in a very bad spot on the flat top of the column just above the square edge of the column. Toproping off them isn't bad since you can use some slings to get the biners over the edge, but I wouldn't feed the links and lower/rap off these bolts. Go down to the On the Road anchors and lower of them instead. Jul 22, 2014