PRINT: Rock Climb Split Decision, Smith Rock

Split Decision

5.12b, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 7 votes
FA: Alan Watts, April 2, 1984
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (z) Lower Gorge > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

This one's a gem! Varied movement on perfect rock with protection that sometimes makes you take note of your position, but usually is exactly where you want it.

Chimney up on top of the pillar at the base of Titus (bolts) and mantle on top to contemplate the climbing above. Difficult, but doable climbing on sparse (but safe) protection brings you to good gear and fun fingerlocks in a corner. After the fingercrack pinches off, enjoy delicate stemming, arete pinching, and compression moves all the way to the chains. Awesome climbing!

Location

Right of Pure Palm.

Protection

Gear to 1", QDs.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alex Shainman
Lakewood, CO

SD is a cool line for sure, not one of the best but there's hard climbing on good rock and engaging moves above gear and then bolt protected funkiness between arete and seam. Having the three upper bolts is nice compared to what appeared to have been short knifeblades in the seam. It's too bad the pillar is there and there isn't an uncontrived direct start. I didn't see a 1" placement and found #00-#2 TCU's and a #10 Stopper to be the best pro for the middle. Don't fall above the 2nd bolt before getting gear! The crux is a real thinker that's for sure! Apr 7, 2013

Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR

This is a really good route, with great movement. If your willing to do a move or two above the pure palm anchor, it's quite easy to TR it that way. May 29, 2013