Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Earl Wiggins & Jimmy Dunn?
Page Views: 2,480 total · 15/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Jan 22, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

This route is located on Turkey Tail, about 75' right of Whimsical Dreams. Locate the "Turkey Turd", which is a narrow pillar of rock that sticks out from the wall, about 60' off the ground.

Climb either side of that pillar (5.8 or so either way), the left side involves some easy OW while the right side requires stemming on good rock. The crux involves pulling the roof above the "Turkey Turd" pillar. An awkward, series of insecure thin hand jams pulls the roof where the crack widens to perfect hands. Luckily the gear is bomber. Two bolts are reached after about 120'.

You can rap (and TR [P1&2]) with a single 70m rope, or continue to the summit.

Per Mark Rolofson:

Pitch 2 is the business (5.11c). Obviously this above description combines the first two pitches. It seemed nice to be in close communication with your partner. Nowadays it makes sense to stretch the rope out.

Pitch 3: (5.9) ascend a beautiful finger crack that peters out. Face climb past one bolt to the top. Definitely do the whole route.

Protection

The crux section requires finger to hand-sized gear. Depending on which start you use, you may need some pretty wide gear for the start. Save a #2 Camalot for the short section above the roof.

Photos

kirkadirka
El Manzano
 
kirkadirka   El Manzano
 
Rope drag can be bad once past the roof, so do your best to runner gear beneath and through the roof. May 20, 2013
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
P2 - beautiful, splitter finger crack to some face climbing. 9+/10-, 90'. Nov 13, 2016
Mark Rolofson
  5.11c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11c
Interesting seeing this called a 1 pitch climb. It was always thought of a three pitch climb. Pitch 1: (5.8) ends just below the top of the pillar. Pitch 2 is the business (5.11c). Obviously this description combines the first two pitches. I never thought of doing this. It seemed nice to be in close communication with your partner. Nowadays it makes sense to stretch the rope out.

Pitch 3: (5.9) Ascend a beautiful finger crack that peters out. Face climb past one bolt to the top. Definitely do the whole route. I have also finished with the "Wise Crack" (5.11d) that ascends a wild finger / hand roof crack (above the first pitch & a half of Sidewinder). This is a great way to get in a harder finish. Jul 27, 2017