Avg: 3.2 from 23 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Earl Wiggins & Jimmy Dunn?|
|Page Views:||2,888 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Anderson on Jan 22, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Climb either side of that pillar (5.8 or so either way), the left side involves some easy OW while the right side requires stemming on good rock. The crux involves pulling the roof above the "Turkey Turd" pillar. An awkward, series of insecure thin hand jams pulls the roof where the crack widens to perfect hands. Luckily the gear is bomber. Two bolts are reached after about 120'.
You can rap (and TR [P1&2]) with a single 70m rope, or continue to the summit.
Per Mark Rolofson:
Pitch 2 is the business (5.11c). Obviously this above description combines the first two pitches. It seemed nice to be in close communication with your partner. Nowadays it makes sense to stretch the rope out.
Pitch 3: (5.9) ascend a beautiful finger crack that peters out. Face climb past one bolt to the top. Definitely do the whole route.