Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,761 total · 31/month
Shared By: Tyler Jones on Feb 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

70 Opinions

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The route starts off great. The first pitch would get two stars. There's a small boulder sticking out at the top of the first pitch with slings around it (bring your own double sling). Best advise is to rap from here. Second and third pitch continue up and to the right of the belay. The descent off the back is really odd, especially if you haven't been up top of Turkey Tail before. It's best done by going to the right from the top and finding spots to hop down between rocks. -Tyler Jones


Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot.
If you move left to a small alcove at the top of the first pitch, you will find two bolts with some funky (yet solid) wire contraption and a couple of slings. Rap straight down the face past the overhang from here. Also, you can do an interesting variation on the last 20 feet by taking a vertical finger crack on the left wall of the dihedral directly to the alcove. Felt 9+ to me, but I was on TR. Sep 4, 2001
Great route! Awesome hand jams with some funky moves along the way. To find this climb from the base of the Perch, boulder hop around to the south face of the obvious Turkey Tail formation. You can find a faint trail once out of all the boulders. Look for a right facing dihedral with double cracks. The crack on the left is wider and is a short squeeze chimney at the bottom. Also, look for a bolted line up a beautiful 5.hard arete which finishes into a crack. Turkey's Delight is about 30 feet to the left of the arete. Enjoy! Nov 25, 2001
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
An adventurous variation second pitch climbs straight above the belay at 5.8. This is called the Dark Meat variation, i think. Classic chimney technique, with protectable crack in the back. Pull over the roof (take care not to run the rope in the crack, would get stuck?)on hand jams and up the OW (crux). A #4-4.5 Camalot would have been nice for this bit. Belay at a sloping ramp. Squirt through a hole/chimney to descend the backside. This way sucked, as it required some downclimbing in the snow. Oct 31, 2003
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
I belayed P1 at an unusual cave-like hole a little to the right of the crack proper, and a fair distance above and R of the "anchor". From there I spiraled L through a "slot canyon-ish" affair then back directly above the belay, past a moderately difficult lie-back to an easy slab/jam fest to just below the top. Scrambled up about another 20 feet to top out. Yes, this created a fair amount of rope drag toward the top, but the climbing was easy and straightforward.

For the descent, the guide we used showed an arrow pointing to the West and "Chimney". We found the chimney, but it appeared a bit harder than we liked, and we didn't see any apparent descent from the bottom of it, so we set up two raps off the back (North) side. If you're on top and in the mood for a treasure hunt there's some booty (stopper, hex, some biners) up there. Someone please clean up my mess! Let me know if you find it... Jul 4, 2006
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
Hi Jerry, I found your rappel anchor in Nov 2008 and cleaned it up. The descent from the top is kind of a hairy scramble. Oct 10, 2009
Peter Hoburg
Park City
Peter Hoburg   Park City
There was a new looking (< 1 month old) orange 6 or 7mm cordalette with one black locking carabiner and one quicklink in good condition on the first pitch rappel station.

Also, I left a black tricam Evo about halfway up the first pitch in the finger crack on the left dihedral. It walked in, and my partner and I were unable to get it out. It was in good condition and never took a fall. Good free booty if you get it out (may the odds be ever in your favor)! Jul 20, 2015
We took the Dark Meat var. for the second pitch - well-protected chimney to a roof with good hand jams/features followed by moderate angle, offwidth, grunt fest. After that, another lengthy section of easy scrambling and unprotected but easy chimney to the top. Belayed with a #4 and #5 up top.

To get down, we did an exposed scramble climber's right/N and down the chimney on the back side/W. We again scrambled N via path of least resistance and then squeezed through right/E to the rap anchors above Hummingbird Way. Two raps, ~80 ft and 90 ft, brought us down. Rapped with a coil to avoid hitting people coming up the popular Hummingbird. Oct 19, 2015
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
Getting off the ground is a bit awkward, either a big reach to a jug or a weird flared squeeze chimney. Both ways seem 5.8 and strange; so this isn't an ideal intro climb to hang up for new trad followers. However, the rest of the first pitch has many options for jams, liebacks, and face moves at about the 5.6 grade; which makes it great learner pitch (compared to the easy splitters at the perch) but only if they get past the initial grovel boulder problem. Jun 17, 2017