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Routes in Turkey Tail

Acoplopse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brush Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camera Obscura T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Consternation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Meat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drumstick Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Side Story T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Offwidth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eclipse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For Turkeys Only T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gobble This T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Search of Unicorns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Inner Reaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jello Party T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Johnny Lat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Side of the Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make the Cut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piece of Cake T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quiver and Quill T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rasmussen Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roofus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Helping T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shoo Kitty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Termination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkey Turd T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey in the Straw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Turkey's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimsical Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wild Turkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ed Webster, 1st 2 pitches, aid solo in 1977, 5.6 A2
Page Views: 7,496 total, 48/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Jan 22, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route lies on the South Face of Turkey Tail. It is about 30 feet East (right) of Whimsical Dreams.

It is an "obvious" splitter. Begin by climbing 15' up a curving crack, it is possible to deck here, as there are hard moves right off the ground. When the curving crack pinches down, reach right to an adjacent crack. This second crack is typically wet near the ground, and if you try to jump over too early, you'll find a nice surprise!

A no hands rest is reached shortly after switching cracks, then power through a thin hands/off fingers section. The crux just might be clipping the anchors--remember, you didn't send if you grab the anchors!

Protection

Mostly finger sizes up to #1 Camalot.
First ascent of the entire 2 pitch route: Ed Webster - aid solo in 1977. It was rated 5.6 A2. Ed placed 2 bolts. Most of the route was done clean, but one piton was needed. The second pitch ascends a 5.6 chimney to the top.

I aid soloed (what was probably) the second ascent in 1978. At the time, it seemed impossible to free climb the entire route. I may have been the first person to lead the first 50 feet free in 1988, accompanied with Mark Milligan. I left two small wires with biners at my highpoint, where the climbing gets really hard (5.12-5.13). It wasn't worth trying to claim any accomplishment by freeing the first 50 feet.

The question & the challenge remains: will the route go free? I say yes. It will go free, but it will be at least 5.13 & probably harder. A bolt may have to added through the bulge where a piton was used. Whoever does it, is going to have to be really honed & very strong. This is one of the last great problems in the area. Have at it, 5.14 climbers. Jul 27, 2017
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
I'm not sure, but I think that Stewart's comment about Ed aid-soloing the route was also written in the context of previous comments about how good the gear is the whole way - definitely does not deserve an R rating.

As a local Springs climber, I enjoy hearing and reading the historical radness that was taking place on a seemingly daily basis by the aforementioned group of hardmen. It's often inspirational, especially when puckering on loose, runout Garden sandstone! Nov 22, 2009
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
Wow...In Search of Unicorns has been completely hijacked. Oh well. Hey Mike - I assume you're the same Mike Anderson from Higher Grounds. And the same one killin' everything in Zion. Correct? If so...strong work bro. If not...yeah...your jokes suck. But keep eggin' on Pete. I want to see him get fired up. Aug 27, 2009
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Aw shucks, you're probably right. But you gotta agree, you're jokes kinda suck. Aug 27, 2009
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Well that's not a very nice thing to say...you don't know anything about me. In fact, I'm sure we'd get along great if we hung out. Aug 26, 2009
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Yer jokes kinda suck Mike. Your first couple posts made you sound ignorant and aloof. Aug 26, 2009
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
"Intimidation"? Jesus, Pete, it was a joke...chill out man. We're talking about climbing...quite possibly the most esoteric and meaningless pursuit in the history of man. The only thing you have to fear, is fear itself...that and my Hilti Te-6A...vroom, vroom!

(Let's see if you can spot that joke.) Aug 26, 2009
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
Well said, Allen. Not only the first big ascents in the Black, but some in the Valley as well. What about Jimmy's ascent of Cosmos? The first solo FA on the Captain! And EVERYTHING in the desert! You're right - they invented desert crack climbing (insert ad for Super Crack film). Not to take anything away from the great Stonemasters, but we always here about those guys. IMO - the generation of Springs climbers that you listed is one of the most influential crews in American climbing (don't get the big head Pete). When Earl free-soloed the Scenic Cruise, that very well could have been the greatest climbing feat ever accomplished at that time. And Turkey was their training ground. Aug 24, 2009
It's kind of funny to think of Turkey Rocks in a sport climbing way...basically most of the sport routes at Turkey are either 2 star, 1 star, or no-star climbs. Well, mostly no-star. Captain Hook and maybe another are okay routes but nothing to write home about. And who climbs them. I never see anyone on them. Sort of a waste of good bolts. They're really only significant because of the bolt wars. Good sport routes in the Platte, ya gotta go to Thunder Ridge or Devil's Head. Now that's sport climbing, pardner! Aug 21, 2009
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
Amen to Turkey. Pete, I gotta say, you aren't intimidated by Mike are you? He's like, half as tall as you. Although he looks like one of those 'ball of muscle types'. Just gotta keep those types at arm's length. Don't let 'em get inside on ya!....

In all seriousness, I think Turkey is one of (if not THE) best trad crags in Colorado. It has DENSITY, good rock, and a good assortment of grades. I would trade Eldo for Turkey ANY day. Aug 21, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Peter is right in defense of the Tail. One of the first 5.12s (For Turkey's Only) in the country if not the world is on that rock. The idea of hard and super technical face climbing in the Platte came out of Harrison Dekker's Jello Party. I know how hard it is as I did the second ascent a few days after Harrison pulled it of. How about "Liquid Acrobat" as hard and sketchy? How about Charlie Fowler's arete? The cracks are rough. The face climbing complex. It's all very steep and world class.

The Tail maybe is one of the most important small crags in the country in retrospect. Sort of a small Arch or Cookie in the Yalley. Imagine the talent that was there after Doucette and Higgins found it.

Pushing standards on that rock where the likes of Jimmy Dunn, Earl Wiggins, Pete Gallagher, Steve Hong, Eddy Webster, Steve Cheney, Charlie Fowler, Mark Rolfson, Ajax Green, Harrison Dekker, the Westbay brothers, Henry Barber,Bryan Becker, Henry Lester, and countless other great climbers of the era who did the very very hard first ascents routes there. These guys did not drill bolts either. Imagine Earl third classing "Whimsical Dreams." Imagine watching Billy Westbay pull back some whiskey and wandering over to Rasmussen's and free soloing it with no effort. He did climb the Nose in day, the very first time.

I'll even throw out the the idea that the cliffs of Indian Creek wouldn't be even known if not for the afternoon face climbs at the Garden of thee Gods and its loose rock and then a weekend of very difficult crack climbing at Turkey Rocks. Sandstone by week, cracks by the weekend. That gave these guys had confidence to climb in Indian Creek and in a pre cam world they needed more than confidence.

Also who did the first big free ascents in the Black? The same guys.

Turkey Rock is a very important cluster of small but steep and burly rocks that are in fact a crag very important to the history of of our sport. It's world class. Let us praise the Turkey and its place in history. Aug 21, 2009
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Careful...I don't think you want to engage me in a debate about the historical significance of Turkey Tail.

If we were to plot a spectrum of "sport crag-iness" that had, say, Rifle Mountain Park on one end and the Eiger Nordwand on the other, Turkey Tail would lie much closer to the RMP end. Aug 20, 2009
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Keeping track of aid FAs on a 200' sport crag seems kind of ridiculous, don't you think? I'd like to consider Ed's climb as a recon of a future route. Aug 19, 2009
First ascent of this route was by Ed Webster solo, I think in 1976. I was climbing Whimsical Dream while he aid rope-soloed it. I have photographs of him on it. We drove up there together. He wanted some aid practice. Jimmy Dunn did not do the first free ascent of this either. Jul 23, 2009
England   ?
I'm not 100% positive, but I believe this is a Jimmy Dunn FA. Perhaps Pete Gallagher can confirm? Jul 16, 2009
Hayduke Cloud
Denver, CO
Hayduke Cloud   Denver, CO
As of today, the wasps are in full effect, making the final 10' unclimable. I agree that this route doesn't deserve the "R" rating. Mar 14, 2009
Nate26  
Stellar pumpy and fun. Solid 11 in my opinion. Oct 5, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11-
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11-
When you're in the transition between the left and right cracks, I found that a #4 Camalot fits perfectly in the right crack and is easier to place. A #2 Camalot can be placed a little higher also but is not necessary. Apr 2, 2007