In Search of Unicorns
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Ed Webster, 1st 2 pitches, aid solo in 1977, 5.6 A2 |
Page Views: | 9,964 total · 40/month |
Shared By: | Mike Anderson on Jan 22, 2005 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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No access from the Turkey Rock Ranch Estates neighborhood.
Description
This route lies on the South Face of Turkey Tail. It is about 30 feet East (right) of Whimsical Dreams.
It is an "obvious" splitter. Begin by climbing 15' up a curving crack, it is possible to deck here, as there are hard moves right off the ground. When the curving crack pinches down, reach right to an adjacent crack. This second crack is typically wet near the ground, and if you try to jump over too early, you'll find a nice surprise!
A no hands rest is reached shortly after switching cracks, then power through a thin hands/off fingers section. The crux just might be clipping the anchors--remember, you didn't send if you grab the anchors!
It is an "obvious" splitter. Begin by climbing 15' up a curving crack, it is possible to deck here, as there are hard moves right off the ground. When the curving crack pinches down, reach right to an adjacent crack. This second crack is typically wet near the ground, and if you try to jump over too early, you'll find a nice surprise!
A no hands rest is reached shortly after switching cracks, then power through a thin hands/off fingers section. The crux just might be clipping the anchors--remember, you didn't send if you grab the anchors!
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