Avg: 2.7 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||2,347 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Anonymous Coward on Jan 22, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This route is located on Turkey Tail. It starts behind a large pine tree, about 40' right of Whimsical Dreams. The first crux involves a short, but very burly lieback about 15'off the ground with slippery footholds. Make sure you place good gear. Above that, easy finger locks reach a sloping ledge. From here, I highly recommend the bolted arete, 4 bolts lead you through typical arete moves. Resist the temptation to dive back into the crack when the arete hits the roof. Stay on the face until you can reach a good hand jam formed by a chockstone. One hand-sized piece gets you to the anchors, where you can rap 70' to the ground. The 2 star rating applies to the arete, the crack section is nothing to write home about, and I thought it felt much harder than the 11a rating the guidebook gives it.
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