Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jimmie Dunn
Page Views: 2,440 total · 14/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 22, 2005 with improvements by JD Roach
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

This route is located on Turkey Tail. It starts behind a large pine tree, about 40' right of Whimsical Dreams. The first crux involves a short, but very burly lieback about 15'off the ground with slippery footholds. Make sure you place good gear. Above that, easy finger locks reach a sloping ledge. From here, I highly recommend the bolted arete, 4 bolts lead you through typical arete moves. Resist the temptation to dive back into the crack when the arete hits the roof. Stay on the face until you can reach a good hand jam formed by a chockstone. One hand-sized piece gets you to the anchors, where you can rap 70' to the ground. The 2 star rating applies to the arete, the crack section is nothing to write home about, and I thought it felt much harder than the 11a rating the guidebook gives it.

Protection

Thin gear for the start, QDs if you want to do the bolted arete variation, otherwise some wider gear for pulling the roof.

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