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Routes in Turkey Tail

Acoplopse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brush Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camera Obscura T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Consternation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Meat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drumstick Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Side Story T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Offwidth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eclipse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For Turkeys Only T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gobble This T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Search of Unicorns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Inner Reaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jello Party T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Johnny Lat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Side of the Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make the Cut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piece of Cake T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quiver and Quill T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rasmussen Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roofus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Helping T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shoo Kitty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Termination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkey Turd T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey in the Straw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Turkey's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimsical Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wild Turkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Sonnenfeld
Page Views: 4,375 total, 39/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 9, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This has technical arete climbing, finishing with a reach out left to a finger crack which is followed to the top. It was bolted, chopped, and rebolted, hence the name.

-It does not receive the traffic it deserves.
-Originally it was graded 5.11d, but it's quite a bit harder than that.

Location

This is the arete left of Whimsical Dreams, starting off of the Rasmussen's ledge.

Protection

Bolts (Buttonheads) and finger-sized cams for the top, bolt anchor.

Photos

Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.12a
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.12a
This is a stunning line! Awesome movement working both sides of the arete and the crack finish is really cool. The crack protects well with #0.3 - #3 Camalots (no #2). The cable anchor atop Whimsical has been replaced with two modern bolts way up and right. Makes for a very abrasive top rope for I Turkey.
The bolts on the route are what appear to be 5/16 buttonheads with SMC hangers. They seem nice and tight, but, I agree, they really should be replaced with modern hardware. This route is amazing and would probably get done more often with good bolts. May 24, 2016
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
Nick Schlichtman   Golden, CO
Bolts are scary on this thing. Buttonheads with spinners. Just an FYI. Apr 24, 2016
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12a/b
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12a/b
Tough! Maybe it was the hot sun making the holds hard to grab, or my weakness. Probably the latter! Oct 20, 2015
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
Easy to toprope without drag if you attach double length slings to the Whimsical anchor and drape them back over the route. Feb 18, 2013
kirkadirka
Boulder
 
kirkadirka   Boulder
 
Can anyone attest to the age of these bolts? A number of them are spinners and not very confidence inspiring.

Super cool line, would love to see some bomber bolts replacing the old ones. Mar 5, 2012
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I've done this a bunch over the years. A really super route, but I agree with an 11+/12a rating. Yellow Alien protects the bottom, bring some hand size for the top. Jun 4, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
This is one of the best routes at this grade I have done in a while. Awesome position and movement. Classic finish.

Some gear beta: an Alien will protect the opening moves getting to the first clip. There are 6 bolts on the arete and great clipping stances, the last one is kind of tricky clip. Along with some finger sized cams, a large hand-sized cam would also help for the finish. like a #2 or #3 Camalot. There is not a bolted anchor as suggested above, but rather rap off the Whimsy cable anchor. Dec 6, 2009