Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Sonnenfeld
Page Views: 4,701 total · 37/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 9, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

28 Opinions

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This has technical arete climbing, finishing with a reach out left to a finger crack which is followed to the top. It was bolted, chopped, and rebolted, hence the name.

-It does not receive the traffic it deserves.
-Originally it was graded 5.11d, but it's quite a bit harder than that.


This is the arete left of Whimsical Dreams, starting off of the Rasmussen's ledge.


Bolts (Buttonheads) and finger-sized cams for the top, bolt anchor.


Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
This is one of the best routes at this grade I have done in a while. Awesome position and movement. Classic finish.

Some gear beta: an Alien will protect the opening moves getting to the first clip. There are 6 bolts on the arete and great clipping stances, the last one is kind of tricky clip. Along with some finger sized cams, a large hand-sized cam would also help for the finish. like a #2 or #3 Camalot. There is not a bolted anchor as suggested above, but rather rap off the Whimsy cable anchor. Dec 6, 2009
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I've done this a bunch over the years. A really super route, but I agree with an 11+/12a rating. Yellow Alien protects the bottom, bring some hand size for the top. Jun 4, 2010
El Manzano
kirkadirka   El Manzano
Can anyone attest to the age of these bolts? A number of them are spinners and not very confidence inspiring.

Super cool line, would love to see some bomber bolts replacing the old ones. Mar 5, 2012
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
Easy to toprope without drag if you attach double length slings to the Whimsical anchor and drape them back over the route. Feb 18, 2013
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
Tough! Maybe it was the hot sun making the holds hard to grab, or my weakness. Probably the latter! Oct 20, 2015
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
Nick Schlichtman   Golden, CO
Bolts are scary on this thing. Buttonheads with spinners. Just an FYI. Apr 24, 2016
Jeff G.
Jeff G.   Lyons
This is a stunning line! Awesome movement working both sides of the arete and the crack finish is really cool. The crack protects well with #0.3 - #3 Camalots (no #2). The cable anchor atop Whimsical has been replaced with two modern bolts way up and right. Makes for a very abrasive top rope for I Turkey.
The bolts on the route are what appear to be 5/16 buttonheads with SMC hangers. They seem nice and tight, but, I agree, they really should be replaced with modern hardware. This route is amazing and would probably get done more often with good bolts. May 24, 2016