Type: Trad
FA: Doug Snively (1970s)
Page Views: 6,504 total · 30/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on May 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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53 Opinions

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Description

This is a quality route located on the left side of Turkey Tail, in the same alcove as Turkey's Delight, but on the opposite side.

P1 ascends a fairly sustained hand and fist crack to the top of the dihedral, followed by an interesting and airy traverse right to a large belay ledge (8).

P2 pulls over the roof on initial jugs and then an awkward move or two (8); go up a low fifth-class ramp to the obvious flaring offwidth (9). A #4 Camalot provides reasonably protection - a #5 would be quite solid. The P2 offwidth felt like a Vedauwoo 9 to me.

I give it 3 stars for the splendid South Platte granite, two quality pitches, and great position.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot size - optional extra #2 and a #5 Camalot.
First ascent by Doug Snively in the early 1970s. May 20, 2003
You can also rap this route on a 60m rope. On the first pitch there's a wire cable around a huge rock. On the second pitch there are two bolts -- and now two equalized pieces of webbing and rap rings.

Difficult climb for the grade. Sep 26, 2004
Matt Chan
Denver
  5.9
Matt Chan   Denver
  5.9
I don't think I would bother dragging a #5 Camalot up this. I felt pretty good having a #3, 3.5, and 4. There were a few points where I walked the #4, but I'm not exactly comfortable in wide cracks. I combined the 2nd and 3rd pitches and I was very happy to have both my #3.5 and 4 still with me for the traditional 3rd pitch. For that part, I slammed in the #4 and stemmed the whole corner, which was a blast. Be careful if rapping with a 60m cord, I would guess that it would be close (we used a 70m and didn't have much left).
P1 - 5.8+, P2 - 5.8, P3 - 5.9 Mar 30, 2006
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
Aka - Snively's Crack. May 9, 2008
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
 
I'm surprised people are calling the #5 cams optional... this sucker is wide! Mar 16, 2009
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
  5.9
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
  5.9
I agree with Eric, I think I may have even used a #6. Mar 16, 2009
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
 
This route has great rock, is a beautiful line, and is definitely wide.

As usual, I forgot that having small hands makes wide cracks feel hard: I found few hand jams on this route, and not so many fists either. If your hands are gigantic, this is the route for you. If you have small hands and are generally terrified of wide cracks (like me) you'll be happy with some big gear. We placed the two biggest curve hexes and the #3, #3.5, #4, #5, and #6 Camalots on both pitches.

Getting down with a 60m rope works fine - there are 2 raps. Jun 5, 2009
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
We were very happy having up to a #6 Camalot.

How is this a "hand and fist crack"? Did your hands get stung by bees and swell up before you got on this climb? The crack leading up to the traverse is mainly fists to offwidth, with a few hand jams to be found. Sep 4, 2009
Jerimiah Gentry
Denver, CO
Jerimiah Gentry   Denver, CO
Wonderful route, but I agree that by no stretch of the imagination is it a hand and fist crack. There are jams here and there, but it is mostly a wide crack kept tame by stemming, face holds, and features within the crack. I was happy to place two #4 Camalots. From the ground, it's difficult to tell, but after 40 feet or so a small crack begins to open up on the right wall accepting small gear. Great route and thanks for the description and photos. Feb 23, 2012
Don McGrath
fort collins, CO
Don McGrath   fort collins, CO
Who removed the rappel bolts from the end of P2? Beware that if you do P2, you will have to walk off, requiring some chimneying or find some other creative way down. I wish the rep bolts were still there.... Apr 13, 2017
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, CO
 
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, CO
 
Anchor atop the 2nd pitch is still missing. Must try to find the walkoff or rappel north side. May 3, 2018
Ron Pivo
Westcreek
Ron Pivo   Westcreek
The descent from the top of Snively’s, as well as all of the routes on Turkey Tail west of Turkey Turd is simple and easy. From the top of the route, drop into the chimney that splits the formation descending from east to west. An easy scramble down this chimney, headed west toward the Turkey Perch, leads to a short vertical step facing north. A very easy 10’ hand crack is downclimbed (5.0) to a ledge and another large chimney to the west. This chimney looks scary to get into, but an easy passage is found by scrambling through a large gap just below the ledge. The chimney is not a downclimb, per se, but a sideways traverse west towards the Perch. When you emerge from the chimney, scramble up and right (north) to a short, easy downclimb that dumps you out near the base of Quivering Quill. Scramble down and around the Quill formation and back to the base of Turkey Tail. If you are capable of climbing any of the routes that go to the top of the Tail, you will have no difficulty doing this descent without a rope. For a party that is familiar with the route, the descent takes ten minutes or less. May 4, 2018