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Routes in Turkey Tail

Acoplopse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brush Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camera Obscura T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Consternation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Meat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drumstick Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Side Story T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Offwidth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eclipse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For Turkeys Only T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gobble This T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Search of Unicorns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Inner Reaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jello Party T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Johnny Lat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Side of the Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make the Cut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piece of Cake T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quiver and Quill T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rasmussen Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roofus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Helping T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shoo Kitty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Termination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkey Turd T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey in the Straw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Turkey's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimsical Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wild Turkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Doug Snively (1970s)
Page Views: 6,225 total, 31/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on May 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a quality route located on the left side of Turkey Tail, in the same alcove as Turkey's Delight, but on the opposite side.

P1 ascends a fairly sustained hand and fist crack to the top of the dihedral, followed by an interesting and airy traverse right to a large belay ledge (8).

P2 pulls over the roof on initial jugs and then an awkward move or two (8); go up a low fifth-class ramp to the obvious flaring offwidth (9). A #4 Camalot provides reasonably protection - a #5 would be quite solid. The P2 offwidth felt like a Vedauwoo 9 to me.

I give it 3 stars for the splendid South Platte granite, two quality pitches, and great position.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot size - optional extra #2 and a #5 Camalot.
Don McGrath
fort collins, CO
Don McGrath   fort collins, CO
Who removed the rappel bolts from the end of P2? Beware that if you do P2, you will have to walk off, requiring some chimneying or find some other creative way down. I wish the rep bolts were still there.... Apr 13, 2017
Jerimiah Gentry
Denver, CO
Jerimiah Gentry   Denver, CO
Wonderful route, but I agree that by no stretch of the imagination is it a hand and fist crack. There are jams here and there, but it is mostly a wide crack kept tame by stemming, face holds, and features within the crack. I was happy to place two #4 Camalots. From the ground, it's difficult to tell, but after 40 feet or so a small crack begins to open up on the right wall accepting small gear. Great route and thanks for the description and photos. Feb 23, 2012
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
We were very happy having up to a #6 Camalot.

How is this a "hand and fist crack"? Did your hands get stung by bees and swell up before you got on this climb? The crack leading up to the traverse is mainly fists to offwidth, with a few hand jams to be found. Sep 4, 2009
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
 
This route has great rock, is a beautiful line, and is definitely wide.

As usual, I forgot that having small hands makes wide cracks feel hard: I found few hand jams on this route, and not so many fists either. If your hands are gigantic, this is the route for you. If you have small hands and are generally terrified of wide cracks (like me) you'll be happy with some big gear. We placed the two biggest curve hexes and the #3, #3.5, #4, #5, and #6 Camalots on both pitches.

Getting down with a 60m rope works fine - there are 2 raps. Jun 5, 2009
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
  5.9
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
  5.9
I agree with Eric, I think I may have even used a #6. Mar 16, 2009
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
 
I'm surprised people are calling the #5 cams optional... this sucker is wide! Mar 16, 2009
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
Aka - Snively's Crack. May 9, 2008
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.9
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.9
I don't think I would bother dragging a #5 Camalot up this. I felt pretty good having a #3, 3.5, and 4. There were a few points where I walked the #4, but I'm not exactly comfortable in wide cracks. I combined the 2nd and 3rd pitches and I was very happy to have both my #3.5 and 4 still with me for the traditional 3rd pitch. For that part, I slammed in the #4 and stemmed the whole corner, which was a blast. Be careful if rapping with a 60m cord, I would guess that it would be close (we used a 70m and didn't have much left).
P1 - 5.8+, P2 - 5.8, P3 - 5.9 Mar 30, 2006
You can also rap this route on a 60m rope. On the first pitch there's a wire cable around a huge rock. On the second pitch there are two bolts -- and now two equalized pieces of webbing and rap rings.

Difficult climb for the grade. Sep 26, 2004
First ascent by Doug Snively in the early 1970s. May 20, 2003