[Hide Comment] This is one of the best routes at this grade I have done in a while. Awesome position and movement. Classic finish.

Some gear beta: an Alien will protect the opening moves getting to the first clip. There are 6 bolts on the arete and great clipping stances, the last one is kind of tricky clip. Along with some finger sized cams, a large hand-sized cam would also help for the finish. like a #2 or #3 Camalot. There is not a bolted anchor as suggested above, but rather rap off the Whimsy cable anchor. Dec 6, 2009

[Hide Comment] I've done this a bunch over the years. A really super route, but I agree with an 11+/12a rating. Yellow Alien protects the bottom, bring some hand size for the top. Jun 4, 2010

[Hide Comment] Can anyone attest to the age of these bolts? A number of them are spinners and not very confidence inspiring.

Super cool line, would love to see some bomber bolts replacing the old ones. Mar 5, 2012

[Hide Comment] Easy to toprope without drag if you attach double length slings to the Whimsical anchor and drape them back over the route. Feb 18, 2013

[Hide Comment] Tough! Maybe it was the hot sun making the holds hard to grab, or my weakness. Probably the latter! Oct 20, 2015

[Hide Comment] This is a stunning line! Awesome movement working both sides of the arete and the crack finish is really cool. The crack protects well with #0.3 - #3 Camalots (no #2). The cable anchor atop Whimsical has been replaced with two modern bolts way up and right. Makes for a very abrasive top rope for I Turkey.
The bolts on the route are what appear to be 5/16 buttonheads with SMC hangers. They seem nice and tight, but, I agree, they really should be replaced with modern hardware. This route is amazing and would probably get done more often with good bolts. May 24, 2016

[Hide Comment] Scrolling through the previous comments, any insight on the current state of the bolts? The last comment on the poor bolts was from 2016. Have they been updated in the last few years? Mar 31, 2019

[Hide Comment] The bolts looked solid. As for pro, a blue TCU down low, a 0.75, and two #2s up higher worked well for me. Apr 21, 2019

[Hide Comment] Thanks, Dillon! Aug 1, 2019

[Hide Comment] The bolts are buttonheads, but they are solid, and none are spinners currently. Oct 1, 2019

[Hide Comment] As of spring 2022, the first bolt is slightly loose and has visible rust. This was not very confidence inspiring. The rest of the bolts look to be in good condition, but who knows what is underneath? Such a good line deserves to be re-bolted with new hardware! Nov 9, 2022