Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dennis Jackson and Earl Wiggins, mid '70s
Page Views: 1,969 total · 11/month
Shared By: pete cogan on May 14, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

This is a terrific Turkey Tail route. From the trail, you'll see a beautiful hand crack perhaps forty feet above you. That's your start. To the left is an OW that gets progressively bigger. To your right, splitting the slab, is a crack that opens and closes and looks nasty (it's Termination, 5.8, and after the start it's very good).

Another approach: look up and locate the slings.

From the trail, scramble up to the base of the climb. Climb about 50 feet of hand crack to a ledge, then another shorter crack section to an easy face, which leads to the anchor.

This is a well-protected, beautiful line.

Protection

#0.75 to #3.5 Camalots; medium and big stoppers; a few bigger hexes. Can double in hand size pieces to sew it up. Webbing and links for rapping. We had a 60 meter rope.

Photos

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Luke Clarke
Golden
Luke Clarke   Golden
If only this route were a little longer it would be a classic. Super jams with a near vertical start lead to more great jams. It's one of those lines you can pretty well guess what each gear placement will be from the start. Do it if you're in the neighborhood. Do Termination too, but this one is better. Jun 26, 2006
FA by Dennis Jackson and Earl Wiggins, mid '70s. Dennis also did the first ascent of Termination and Inner Reaches, and Ragger Bagger and Refer Madness on the Perch. Aug 26, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Thin hands at base - crux is getting off the ground at 5.9-. Aug 18, 2013