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Routes in Turkey Tail

Acoplopse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brush Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camera Obscura T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Consternation T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dark Meat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drumstick Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Side Story T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Offwidth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eclipse T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
For Turkeys Only T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fuzzy Caterpillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobble This T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Search of Unicorns T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inner Reaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jello Party T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Johnny Lat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Side of the Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make the Cut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piece of Cake T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quiver and Quill T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rasmussen Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roofus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Helping T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shoo Kitty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Termination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkey Turd T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey in the Straw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Turkey's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimsical Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wild Turkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,204 total · 6/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Apr 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Located on the sunny side of the Turkey Tail, Spider Lady is an awesome route. It combines a little bit of everything, fingers, hands, and off width. Too bad getting on the route is such a hassle. See the description for the traverse.

Locate a left-facing corner 20 feet right of the start to Drumstick Direct. This is the right side of the pinnacle that goes up to Turkey Turd.

Pitch 1 - Climb the left-facing corner with good hand jamming near the top. Continue up above the corner a few feet and find the least sufferable spot to belay.

Pitch 2 - From the belay, climb down and to the right, traversing across a step, blank slab. Aim for a left-facing corner with a pin, fixed stopper, and crispy webbing. (This traverse is awful. Both the leader and the 2nd will have a tough time. Consider bringing something to leave so the pitch can be back cleaned and done with a tension traverse.) Continue up the superb, left-facing corner. It throws a little bit of everything at you from fingers, to hands, to off width. There are many exciting flakes and good foot holds as well. Belay from a nice ledge at the left side of a giant roof.

Pitch 3 - Step left and gain a long section of moderate, lower-angled cracks take you to a notch in the summit ridge of Turkey Tail.

Descent - Depending on the time of year, you have at least 2 options. If snow is not too bad on the dark side of Turkey Tail, rappel straight down the backside of the tail from a good station in the notch. If it looks like a post hole from hell in climbing shoes, another option is to traverse east out of the notch along the summit ridge of Turkey Tail. At the end of the ridge, look for a rappel station that is located down and to the north. This may consist of knotted slings jammed into cracks. Rappel into the wide chimney/gully with a single rope. Walk along the crest of the ridge for a few feet to the east. Another rappel should be encountered. It consists of knotted slings jammed in cracks and a slung boulder. A single rope rappel will land you near the base of a route named Double Trouble. The base of this route and your gear is just a few steps back to the west. Enjoy.

Protection

This route takes a little bit of everything. You will not need as much big gear as on either of its neighbors.

Photos

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Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
Yeaaa, the traverse should get your attention. Managed to do it with out incident yet swore I was going for the swing on several occasions. It will put some hair on your chest. I give the traverse 5.10. The rest of the climb is 5.fun. Aug 20, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
+1 victim to the unexpected experience on the slab. I don't think it was 5.10, but when I reached the end of the traverse, I was happy I'd sunk a few pieces in before starting it, as I was looking at a hot and greasy last move in the sun... and a long and violent swing if I'd slipped.
The rest of the route is fun and varied - and the rock is mostly good. Mar 19, 2012

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