Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Dan McClure and Mark Hesse. Doug Snively and Dan McClure (from CGNA)?
Page Views: 17,559 total · 75/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Jun 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


128 Opinions

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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

The first pitch is long and stellar. Bring two ropes to rap of the first pitch at the shuts. You should know how to crack climb and have some endurance if you hop on this baby.

You can't miss this thing, especially if you locate the heinous-looking flaring fat roof of For Turkeys Only. Our route is just to the right and has plenty of chalk on it (you don't need any). Look for a crack parallel crack system that starts off a small pedestal/ledge about 15-20 ft off the ground.It steepens and switches from a left-facing to a right-facing dihedral about 1/2 way and leads to a roof. Now you can't miss it.

Start in a left-facing corner and stem upwards to a small ledge, continue about 6 ft. up to a second small ledge to enter the parallel crack system. The right crack is part of a left-facing dihedral initially. You will most likely favor the left crack initially and eventually move to the right crack. Continue on this steepening crack. It switches to a right facing dihedral crack, eventually capped by a roof. Move upwards to the roof via stemming and jamming. Move out the left roof crack, up a few more feet, and onto an easy face to gain a ledge. Move right on the ledge to the rap anchors.

This thing is stellar. I can't believe that Hubbel doesn't give it any stars when it deserves 3. Come to think of it, he didn't give Gobbler's Grunt (2 stars IMHO) any, either. This thing is long and fairly sustained. I say it is easily better than Quiver and Quill. This is one of the best pitches I have done at the Platte - at least as good as the P1 of Straw Turkey and P2 on the Center Route.

Protection

Standard rack, up to a #4 Friend/#3.5 Camalot. Double on hands and small hands. I placed a #4 Camalot, but it was not necessary. Note: I did not do the 2nd pitch, which is a short 5.8 offwidth and offwidth/chimney section - no one does it. At the top of the first pitch, traverse right to welded cold shut anchors.

Photos