Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 119 total · 13/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on Apr 30, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a nice little hand crack on the back side of the Tail that is short but quite pleasant.

Gain the spacious ledge left of Consternation via a few awkward 5th Class moves. You can either belay from here or from the base of Consternation. Climb the steep hands and wide hands crack in the left-facing corner into the lower angled, right-facing corner above. This first pitch ends on a large ledge system. Belay on large gear (BD #4-5) at the top of the crack or scramble around to find other options further away from the crack. There is sometimes a cordelette anchor atop the neighboring Consternation crack.

To descend, use the anchor atop Consternation if there is one. If there is not, you can try to find the complicated 4th Class scramble off described elsewhere for the Tail or bring some anchor material to leave behind.

There is a second pitch which I did not do, but it looks good. Climb a short hand crack to another ledge and then continue up an offwidth that tightens to hands. Apparently this pitch is 5.7 and a #5 cam is recommended.

Location

Look for a dark section of rock on the western end of the north side of the Tail with two obvious, short hand cracks. The left one in a left-facing corner is Fuzzy Caterpillar, and the right one with a big pod at the bottom is Consternation.

Protection

#2 & #3 BD cams protect the first pitch. A #5 cam is recommended for the second pitch.

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