Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 744 total · 11/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on Apr 30, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a pleasant two pitch climb on the shady side of the Tail.

Gain the spacious ledge left of Consternation via a few awkward 5th Class moves, and belay from here.

Climb the steep hands and wide hands crack in the left-facing corner into the lower angled, right-facing corner above. The first pitch ends on a large ledge system. There is sometimes a cordelette anchor atop the Consternation crack that can be used to descend from here.

The second pitch offwidth looks quite intimidating from below, and you will be scratching your head at the 5.7 rating until you get up to it and discover the secret. Contrary to how it appears, the crux actually comes near the top.

The somewhat elusive 4th Class Turkey Tail scramble off will deposit you right back at the base of the route, or leave a sling anchor if you can't figure it out. There is a decent chance you will find some sort of anchor in your explorations, but do not count on it. 

Location Suggest change

Look for a dark section of rock on the western end of the north side of the Tail with two obvious, short hand cracks. The left one in a left-facing corner is Fuzzy Caterpillar, and the right one with a big pod at the bottom is Consternation.

Protection Suggest change

#2 & #3 BD cams protect the first pitch. A #5 cam is recommended for the second pitch. Bring a few other hand-sized pieces.


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