Elevation: 8,247 ft
GPS: 39.119, -105.239 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 102,913 total · 543/month
Shared By: John McNamee on Feb 17, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

Note: The GPS coordinates for this location as shown on the map will take you to the trailhead not the location of the main crag. To access the main crag, utilize the Approach to Turkey Rocks.

Turkey Tail is a great crag with some terrific lines. The difficulty level is a bit stiffer than most of the crags in the Turkey Rocks complex, so the seeker of the lower end difficulty routes might consider other crags in the area. Some of the routes include overhanging sections, so power can be useful here. This crag is to the right of Turkey Rock & Turkey Perch. Perhaps, the area classic is Whimsical Dreams.

Getting There

Turkey Tail located down and right (East) from Turkey Perch. Go to the saddle near Turkey Perch, and hike down and right to the base of the crag.

For accurate directions to the approach to Turkey Rock, search for Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Do not park in or approach the crags from Turkey Rock Ranch Estates. There is no public parking, and the locals do not take this well.

Descent

The rap anchors at the top of Hummingbird Way have been removed. The only way down is a walk off. Here's the description per Ron Pivo: "the descent from the top of Snively’s, as well as all of the routes on Turkey Tail west of Turkey Turd is simple and easy. From the top of the route, drop into the chimney that splits the formation descending from east to west. An easy scramble down this chimney, headed west toward the Turkey Perch, leads to a short, vertical step facing north. A very easy 10’ hand crack is downclimbed (5.0) to a ledge and another large chimney to the west. This chimney looks scary to get into, but an easy passage is found by scrambling through a large gap just below the ledge. The chimney is not a downclimb, per se, but a sideways traverse west towards the Perch. When you emerge from the chimney, scramble up and right (north) to a short, easy downclimb that dumps you out near the base of Quivering Quill. Scramble down and around the Quill formation and back to the base of Turkey Tail. If you are capable of climbing any of the routes that go to the top of the Tail, you will have no difficulty doing this descent without a rope. For a party that is familiar with the route, the descent takes ten minutes or less.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turkey Tail

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 86
Turkey's Delight
Trad 3 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 40
Eclipse
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 68
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 38
Sidewinder
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 108
Rasmussen Crack
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 146
Quiver and Quill
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 141
Drumstick Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 149
Whimsical Dreams
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 62
In Search of Unicorns
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 24
Turkey Turd
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
For Turkeys Only
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
Gobble This
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch)
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 35
I Turkey/ Resurrection
Trad, Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Johnny Lat
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Turkey's Delight
 86
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Eclipse
 40
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Hummingbird Way aka Snively…
 68
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sidewinder
 38
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Rasmussen Crack
 108
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Quiver and Quill
 146
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Drumstick Direct
 141
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Whimsical Dreams
 149
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
In Search of Unicorns
 62
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Turkey Turd
 24
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
For Turkeys Only
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Gobble This
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch)
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
I Turkey/ Resurrection
 35
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Johnny Lat
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Turkey Tail »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: South
Sunny Roughly 8am to 4pm during high season
6am
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