Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Roos, Paul Sibley, Carl Arndt, and Bernum Arndt, 1968
Page Views: 66,547 total · 233/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route is three pitches of some of the best crack climbing around. I've heard it called the best 5.9 in the state. The first pitch is a hand/finger crack where you can use a little lie-backing. Belay at the slings.

The second pitch is the crux, it's a long pitch that leads up a perfect hand crack over a couple little bulges. Every jam is bomber, but, it is pretty sustained. Set a hanging belay once the crack is about to widen up. Edit: The disentegrating chockstone at the end of P2 is reported to have been trundled, but I have not witnessed it personally, so be cautious as always.

The third pitch is a little bit wider and leads up to the false summit with bolts. Do not climb the crack on the left wall unless you are aiming for the 10a variation which is separately posted on this site. From here, you can climb a short, bolted 5.11 to the very top, or rap. The bolts to rap off the back are scary, and lead to heinous bushwhacking and boulder hopping in the icebox. Rap just to the left of the route (looking down).

There is a row of nice bolts halfway down on the face. You can do two raps from the false summit with double ropes, or 4 rappels from the top of p3 with a single 60m.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a few extra pieces, and cams up to #4 Camalot, double or triple #2s and #3s works good. Can substitute some cams for passive pro depending on preference/experience.

Edit: gear suggestion from TBrumme:

1x finger sizes, 2x #0.75 and #3, 3x #1 and #2, and 1x #4 recommended if you aren't confident at the (South Platte) grade. Leave the stoppers behind if you have the above rack.

Photos

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