Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Olaf Mitchell & Ken Trout (submitted as Rob Wolfe?) or Rob and Oliver Hill ,1985 or early 1986
Page Views: 2,340 total · 20/month
Shared By: stevecurtis on Nov 17, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This excellent route starts with the Center Route. Head directly right from the center route start, on a weakness/dike, 5.9 R. About 25 feet right there is a crack that arches back left. The first part is the crux--difficult gear and run out 11b PG-13. The crack arches left and crosses back over the Center Route. This is the first belay. From this belay, head straight up the thin crack and then up and left to the Fender dihedral. 11+ PG-13.

Per Kevin Stricker: the route starts in the Turf Spreader chimney then traverses out below the TS roof for a spicy pitch to link into the start you describe. This second pitch if taken all the way to the 1st belay of Center Route is full value and challenging as you cannot see your belayer for over 150 feet of climbing and you are traversing above sometimes marginal protection (11b R). You can easily break it up into two pitches with the first part being the scariest, and belay before the hand crack that leads to the Center Route P1 anchor.

Location

The start is in the same location as Center Route. There are usually sling anchors in the Fender dihedral for rapping, or continue up the Fender crux---full of shit and then Wunsch's Dihedral.

Protection

Full range 3 HB to #3 Camalot. 1 piece each hand sizes, doubles on TCU/Aliens. HBs. RPs.

Photos