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Routes in Cynical Pinnacle

Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buffaloes in Space T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
CMC Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Center Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Center Route P3 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Class Act S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Facial (aka Only the Lonely) S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hand Job Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey in the Forest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Off-width Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rap Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rising Crescendo T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Rubber Ducky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turf Spreader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twist O' Flex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wunsch's Dihedral T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,628 total, 20/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Nov 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route is on the Cynical Pinnacle. It starts below the obvious line of Hand Job which leads to the top of the Pinnacle in 4 pitches.

If hiking up from the road towards the start of Center Route and Wunsch's, look for the obvious line of Monkey's in the Forrest, it has a small tree with slings on it, and contnue uphill to the next crack. It looks obvious and good from the ground.

Start off with steep hand jams which lead to the crux where the crack widens a bit. Move right above the crux into a different crack and follow this (5.8+ hands) to the walk off ledge.

Walk off to the left making some rather exposed scrambling moves.

Protection

Pro up to #3 Camalot, double #2 and #3.

Photos

Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
 
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
 
Cut the tat at the top and added a fresh cordelette and forged ring at the chockstone. 70m gets you down (just barely). Aug 7, 2011
P1 felt harder than 5.9. I found it pumpy and awkward down low. Nothing bigger than a 3.5 cam. Nov 6, 2009
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
Climbed this right after Center Route. I don't get this one's 5.8- 5.9 rating. It was more strenuous, awkward and sustained than Center Route. There is a rap anchor at the top. 60m won't make it, We used 2 ropes. The anchor placement is pretty bad for pulling the ropes. We had to get far away from the cliff face to be able to pull them. Nov 6, 2009
A. Wolaver
Golden, CO
A. Wolaver   Golden, CO
A terrific route! You can rap off this route with the stretch and love of a 70 m rope. Jan 20, 2009
A couple of #3.5 Camalots could also help you here, along with the three larger hexes.

You can also rap the route with 2 ropes.

Terrific pitch. Sep 6, 2004
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.9+
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.9+
Chris Hodge, Mike Surkalo, and I climbed this back in winter, 1974. Probably a first ascent. Later in the spring we finished Hand Job all the way to the Wunsch's bolt ladder and summit with another guy from high school named Barry.

We did not name the route Hand Job or anything else, That is one of the lies from the Brown Book, but the jamming sure messed up our hands.

It would be better if hand job had a double bolt anchor at the top. We hadn't been to the valley yet in '74 and didn't know how to set up single pitch cracks properly.

Thanks for pointing out my mistake, Alison and MH. I changed my rating back to reality 2/12/2016: 5.9+. Dec 30, 2003