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Routes in Cynical Pinnacle

Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buffaloes in Space T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
CMC Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Center Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Center Route P3 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Class Act S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Facial (aka Only the Lonely) S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hand Job Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey in the Forest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Off-width Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rap Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rising Crescendo T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Rubber Ducky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turf Spreader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twist O' Flex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wunsch's Dihedral T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 225 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,565 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Aug 22, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is the easiest way to the summit of Cynical Pinnacle. The crux is getting to the base of the route (see below). Climb a nice, stemming chimney, with a bit of offwidth at the top until you can mantle on to a very large ledge. (100') Next, climb some offwidth (5.8) to a right-angling crack that takes you to the NW corner of the pinnacle about 50 vertical feet below the summit. Continue climbing the crack (1 or 2 5.7 moves) until you reach easier ground and the summit.

Location

This route is on the north side of the pinnacle. Hike around to the right side and scramble up the boulder and bush laden gully until you see the obvious chimney. This requires a bit of bushwhacking to be sure.

You can rap back down to the very large ledge, where there are anchors that get you to the ground. But why don't you just rap of the west face instead and save yourself the bushwhack? You can reach the ground with one double rope rappel off the west face. This does require some scrambling after the rap, but it is an easy way off.

Protection

Splatte rack.

Photos

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Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
This appears to be #88 in Hubbel's 1997 guide (page 76: climbs 86, 87, 88 have no names, ratings, or descriptions). A good adventure.

A #6 would have been nice for the second bit of offwidth.

From the summit, a rap with a single 70m rope will just barely put you on the ledge at the top of the chimney (a short bit of unroped easy scrambling may be necessary to reach the fixed pin anchor on that ledge). You may have to leave some tat on the summit bolts to extend to the edge, though. Then a second single rope rap back to the deck. Sep 25, 2014
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I believe this is the only free route to the summit rated under 5.11. Nov 16, 2007