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Routes in Cynical Pinnacle

Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buffaloes in Space T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
CMC Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Center Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Center Route P3 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Class Act S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Facial (aka Only the Lonely) S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hand Job Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey in the Forest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Off-width Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rap Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rising Crescendo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Rubber Ducky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turf Spreader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twist O' Flex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wunsch's Dihedral T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Cynical Pinnacle is probably the most popular of the crags in the Cathedral Spires of the South Platte. Its prominent south-facing prow attracts the eye for miles. This spire hosts a number of fine routes. The ever popular Center Route gains the greatest lines & waits. However, Wunsch's Dihedral is an excellent sustained line for the intermediate to advanced crack climber. Turf Spreader draws the eye, but requires a pumpy roof to gain entry to its beautiful upper crack. The Prayer Book was once featured in a Jeff Lowe video. Breashear's Crack is a fun test piece for the advanced.

Getting There

Walk uphill up one of the various of the trails ascending from the North Fork of the South Platte River. You may pass various abandoned relics from a different era along the way.

Descent

Most parties will descend to the east off of the summit to the saddle on top of Center Route. From the saddle there are a few different options depending on if you have 2 ropes or not. Note that it is possible to descend with one 60m rope. See comments below for a detailed explanation.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cynical Pinnacle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
CMC Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Hand Job Direct
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 290
Center Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
Hand Job (aka West Face)
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Twist O' Flex
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Center Route P3 Variation
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Monkey in the Forest
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 26
Class Act
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 24
Turf Spreader
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 147
Wunsch's Dihedral
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 5
Rising Crescendo
Trad 3 pitches
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Full Facial (aka Only the Lonely)
Sport 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
CMC Route
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Hand Job Direct
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Center Route
 290
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Hand Job (aka West Face)
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Twist O' Flex
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Center Route P3 Variation
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Monkey in the Forest
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Class Act
 26
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Sport
Turf Spreader
 24
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Wunsch's Dihedral
 147
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 4 pitches
Rising Crescendo
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad 3 pitches
Full Facial (aka Only the L…
 4
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Cynical Pinnacle »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Just wanted to mention that you can get down from the summit with a 70m rope. From the shoulder on top of Center Route, run across the wall to the top of the handcrack on Turf Spreader (bolt and fixed nut). Then to the next bolted anchor on the slab and so on. Feb 15, 2009
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
A 60m rope works fine for this, just knot your ends when you penji right to the third pitch anchor of Turf Spreader. Feb 16, 2009
slim    
Haven't ever done it with a 60, but it sounds nervewracking. Probably want to be careful if doing so. Feb 16, 2009
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
A 60m works great for the descent. The last rap will put you on the ledge, which is part of the 4th class approach.

The summit register and pin needs to be replaced. There are only a couple blank pages left. Feb 16, 2009
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
It is completely possible to rap with one 60m rope off the summit.

1st: Rap from the summit to the shoulder at the top of Center Route.
2nd: Rap off the normal anchors at the top of Center Route, trending climber's right to the top of the 3rd pitch of Turf Spreader. There is one bolt and a slung nest here that you can rap off of. ~90ft!! Tie knots!!!
3rd: Rap off these anchors and trend back left to a double bolt anchor. Big pendulum here!
4th: Rap straight down to a hidden anchor ~60-70 feet below.
5th: Rap straight down to the 4th class ledges ~100ft

I would recommend an autoblock. I did not use an autoblock and resorted to heel-toe cam acrobatics to traverse the large horizontal crack to get to the anchor at the top of turf spreader. ALSO TIE KNOTS!! The end of the rope is not far away on a couple of these raps. Nov 9, 2010
Keith Leary
Broomfield, CO
Keith Leary   Broomfield, CO
Found two ropes hanging at Cynical Pinnacle, if they are yours contact us at nctxclimber@gmail.com or wannabedirtbag@yahoo.com. Aug 5, 2011
John Klooster
Arvada, CO
John Klooster   Arvada, CO
Keith, I sent you an email. Thanks Aug 5, 2011
JFisher  
Great day up on Wunsch's on Thursday, 8/16 although my partner was unable to clean a yellow TCU 1/2 way up the 3rd pitch and somehow a purple BD c3 worked its way off my harness and fell (presumably) onto the 1st pitch ledges.... If anybody finds one/both of these, I would be EXTREMELY grateful. Thanks! Aug 18, 2012
moby  
If you left a black jacket and gloves below the Center Route on the Cynical Pinnacle on the 13th, I have them and will happly return them too you.
rseal88@yahoo.com Oct 14, 2013

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