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Elevation: 7,827 ft
GPS: 39.42059, -105.25164
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 136,473 total · 620/month
Shared By: John McNamee on Feb 17, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Cynical Pinnacle is probably the most popular of the crags in the Cathedral Spires of the South Platte. Its prominent south-facing prow attracts the eye for miles. This spire hosts a number of fine routes. The ever popular Center Route gains the greatest lines & waits. However, Wunsch's Dihedral is an excellent sustained line for the intermediate to advanced crack climber. Turf Spreader draws the eye, but requires a pumpy roof to gain entry to its beautiful upper crack. The Prayer Book was once featured in a Jeff Lowe video. Breashear's Crack is a fun test piece for the advanced.

Getting There Suggest change

Walk uphill up one of the various of the trails ascending from the North Fork of the South Platte River. You may pass various abandoned relics from a different era along the way.

Per Ross Exler: new approach beta: to approach Cynical Pinnacle, park in the parking lot with the bathroom (not the small pulloffs for the old trail that you will pass coming from Foxton), and start up the trail for Sunshine Wall on the left side of the lot by the signs. After 5 minutes, the trail will split towards the right at some logs used to stabilize the trail (you’ll pass another trail that splits to the right, but no logs). Take this right, and follow the trail to the top. Thank you so much BCC trail crew and volunteers for the hard work and excellent new trail.

Descent

Suggest change
Most parties will descend to the east off of the summit to the saddle on top of Center Route. From the saddle there are a few different options depending on if you have 2 ropes or not. Note that it is possible to descend with one 60m rope. See comments below for a detailed explanation.

24 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Cynical Pinnacle Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cynical Pinnacle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 27
Hand Job Direct
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 468
Center Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 11
Hand Job (aka West Face)
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Twist O' Flex
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
Center Route P3 Variation
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Monkey in the Forest
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 36
Class Act
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 38
Turf Spreader
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
 214
Wunsch's Dihedral
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 10
Rising Crescendo or Serpentine C…
Trad 3 pitches
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 9
Buffaloes in Space
Trad
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Only the Lonely
Sport 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hand Job Direct
 27
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Center Route
 468
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Hand Job (aka West Face)
 11
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Twist O' Flex
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Center Route P3 Variation
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Monkey in the Forest
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Class Act
 36
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
Turf Spreader
 38
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Wunsch's Dihedral
 214
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Rising Crescendo or Serpent…
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad 3 pitches
Buffaloes in Space
 9
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Trad
Only the Lonely
 4
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Cynical Pinnacle »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Details: Center Route goes into the shade by 5pm on August 31st.

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