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50 Shades of Green
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Cynical Pinnacle
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50 Shades of Green S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Buffaloes in Space T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Center Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Center Route P1 Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Center Route P3 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Class Act T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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CMC Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Green Piece T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Hand Job (aka West Face) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hand Job Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost at Sea T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Monkey in the Forest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Off-width Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Only the Lonely S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rap Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rising Crescendo or Serpentine Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Rubber Ducky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rubber Ducky P2 T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Tough Turf T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Turf Spreader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twist O' Flex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wunsch's Dihedral T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
| Type: | Sport, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Wade Morris, Rob Cotton, Nick Schlichtman |
| Page Views: | 292 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | WadeM on Feb 25, 2023 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This is the extension of Green Project, adding 65+meters of new climbing! From atop the P2 anchors, head towards the Turf Speader SPLITTER. From there, head more or less straight up on bolts until you top out on the Center Route shoulder. This can be done as 1-3 pitches as described below:
P1: 5.11: climb 10 bolts towards Turf Spreader. The hardest move is probably right off the anchors.
P2: 5.12a/b: a 5 bolt pitch of BDSM for your fingers and toes. Carefully step over the wedged block to gain a crimper rail, and make difficult moves up and right to an underclingish pinch. Hand foot match, and slab your way slightly left and then up on small sharp holes. The last bolt would benefit from being moved more right. This and the first pitch were bolted from hooks, and I didn’t have time to adjust this before the closures. Belay at the obvious horizontal crack with 0.4-0.5 sized cams. P1& 2 link well.
P3 5.11c: take the left line of 10 bolts to the Center Route saddle. It is easiest to belay from Class Act's anchors.
A good strategy is to climb Center Route as a warm-up and hang draws on way down.
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