Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Jason Haas, Craig Weinhold (02/10), or perhaps Jim Dunn|
|Page Views:||1,510 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||rkrum on Feb 19, 2017|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
P1. Step into the prickly start of the sustained squeeze chimney. Sidewind, swim, and frogger your way up to a single bolt anchor on your left (back it up with small cam or two) underneath the roof (5.9+, 60').
P2. Traverse out right, place your optional #5, and delicately worm your way into the alcove under the crux. Sort out gear, and patiently thrash your way out the roof. Succeeding is highly recommended here for various reasons. Belay in the alcove below the next roof. Don't forget to stop and smell the roses. Note: "the 'thin flake' overhead never comes into play"; however, your follower will probably appreciate a bit of belay creativity on your part (5.11, 40').
P3. Hand traverse out left, step up to a large ledge. If there was still any question as to whether you were on route, you'll know when you get here (5.8, 25').
P4. Jam and offwidth your way off the ledge to the creme brulee of the route, a very enjoyable 5.10 offwidth bulge to chimney. Cruise your way to the top of the gaping fissure, and belay on gear (5.10, 105').
Descent: from the slung block on the summit, a 70m single rope rap down the north side will get you to a slab at the base of the uphill side of the formation (knot your ends) but will not get you straight down into the actual gully floor. This seems preferable to rapping into the gully and you do not need a second rope.
P1: 2 blue Big Bro, #9, gold Big Bro. A finger - thin hand piece for the belay.
P2: "optional #5", #9 and green Big Bro OR 2 green Big Bros. Hand - fist sized gear for the belay.
P3: rack to #4.
P4: rack to #6. Small-ish cams could be placed in horizontals on occasion if you were so inclined.