Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Wunsch's Dihedral
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British C0
Avg: 4 from 222
votes
Routes in Cynical Pinnacle
|
|
50 Shades of Green S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Buffaloes in Space T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Center Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Center Route P1 Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
Center Route P3 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Class Act T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
CMC Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Green Piece T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Hand Job Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Lost at Sea T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Monkey in the Forest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Off-width Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Only the Lonely S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Rap Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Rising Crescendo or Serpentine Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Rubber Ducky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Rubber Ducky P2 T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Tough Turf T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Turf Spreader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Twist O' Flex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Wunsch's Dihedral T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | assorted |
| Page Views: | 50,591 total · 179/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Levin on Sep 25, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
5 stars. This may be THE best crack climb in the South Platte region. If you have not done this route, get after it ASAP. The climb takes on the awesome, striking crack and corner system which splits the south face of Cynical Pinnacle.
Hump up the hill, and find the steep corridor which leads to the start of this and the Center Route. The route described here is "The Complete Wunsch's Dihedral", which avoids the original first pitch.
Pitch 1: the Breashear's Finger Crack, 5.11d. Climb the tight, straight-in finger crack that splits the end of the alcove. It is hard right off the start, with a tricky move through a pod and bulge. The crack remains strenuous most of the way to the end of the pitch. Protect with many wireds and TCUs to 1 or 2 inch cams. Belay on an excellent ledge (fixed anchors). This is a long pitch and is outstanding.
Pitch 2: 5.10d. Climb the sustained, brilliant hand crack directly off the ledge to a semi-sling belay in an alcove below a roof (fixed anchors). Bring extra hand-size cams. It is incredible.
Pitch 3: 5.11. Awkwardly surmount the roof (possible 4" cam), then stem and lieback your way up the incredible corner. Use wired nuts and TCUs for protection. The corner opens up to a wide 5.8 hand-fist crack higher, so have a piece or 2 in this size also. Belay on a large sloping ledge below a bolt ladder. This is brilliant.
Pitch 4: 5.12b. Ascend the bolt ladder directly. This is very thin, steep nubbin climbing. It is easily (and often) aided. It is also possible to diverge left at the 3rd or 4th bolt and climb the unprotected face at 5.11 (the original free variation). It is stupendous.
Descent: You can descend from the summit of the Pinnacle with one 60 meter rope, but a 70m is a bit more comfy. First, use the rap station to the NE, bringing you to the shoulder at the top of the Center Route. From there, you can descend the front side face, to the climber's right of the center route on new bolt anchors. The rappels wander slightly but reach the ground in 4 clean and simple rappels.
This formation is closed Feb. to end of July for bird nesting. It can get pretty hot up there in August, and this is doable even mid-winter on a good day.
If I were to list the 4 must-do, classic 5.10-5.11 multi-pitch routes in the state, they would be: Wunsch's Dihedral, The Yellow Wall on the Diamond, The Naked Edge, and The Scenic Cruise.
Photos
39 Comments