Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Roger Briggs,1975
Page Views: 1,176 total · 29/month
Shared By: Ralph Swansen on Aug 9, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


This pitch is a fine option for those that want to summit but are not feeling the. 11b (Class Act).

Chimney up the start of the third pitch. When the hand crack appears on the left, follow it up (crux) and out left around the arĂȘte. This leads to a leftward traverse which dumps you above the difficult moves of the third pitch of Wunsch's. Continue up Wunsch's to the base of the bolt ladder.

I was surprised to find no bolted anchor at the base of the bolt ladder as there is no place for a trad anchor unless you have a #4 (combined with the first bolt of the ladder) or build an uncomfortable belay where Wunsch's dumps you out onto the platform. I girth hitched the rope to the first two bolts and setup a belay off that.

Before belaying my partner, I had to descend to the last piece I placed and remove it so that I could get the rope out of the crack as it was just fully stuck. The crack just doesn't let the rope run up it. I was able to sit back off the anchor and pull the rope up over the edge of the rock without it falling back into the crack.


Rappel as for Wunsch's.


Doubles from 0.75 to 3, one set for before the traverse (lower section) and one set for the upper and maybe three ones and twos if you want to sew it up.


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Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
An extremely varied pitch to break up the monotony of the perfect hands of down below. Awkward as hell leaving the belay, but a huge rest pod before the wide fingers crux offers aid. An easy, fun, exposed traverse leading to an easy featured wide section, save a #4 that'll bring you to the shoulder of Wunsch's. Get on it! Nov 10, 2016