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Routes in Cynical Pinnacle

Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buffaloes in Space T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
CMC Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Center Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Center Route P3 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Class Act S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Facial (aka Only the Lonely) S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hand Job Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey in the Forest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Off-width Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rap Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rising Crescendo T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Rubber Ducky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turf Spreader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twist O' Flex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wunsch's Dihedral T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Roger Briggs,1975
Page Views: 884 total, 31/month
Shared By: Ralph Swansen on Aug 9, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This pitch is a fine option for those that want to summit but are not feeling the. 11b (Class Act).

Chimney up the start of the third pitch. When the hand crack appears on the left, follow it up (crux) and out left around the arĂȘte. This leads to a leftward traverse which dumps you above the difficult moves of the third pitch of Wunsch's. Continue up Wunsch's to the base of the bolt ladder.

I was surprised to find no bolted anchor at the base of the bolt ladder as there is no place for a trad anchor unless you have a #4 (combined with the first bolt of the ladder) or build an uncomfortable belay where Wunsch's dumps you out onto the platform. I girth hitched the rope to the first two bolts and setup a belay off that.

Before belaying my partner, I had to descend to the last piece I placed and remove it so that I could get the rope out of the crack as it was just fully stuck. The crack just doesn't let the rope run up it. I was able to sit back off the anchor and pull the rope up over the edge of the rock without it falling back into the crack.

Location

Rappel as for Wunsch's.

Protection

Doubles from 0.75 to 3, one set for before the traverse (lower section) and one set for the upper and maybe three ones and twos if you want to sew it up.

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Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
An extremely varied pitch to break up the monotony of the perfect hands of down below. Awkward as hell leaving the belay, but a huge rest pod before the wide fingers crux offers aid. An easy, fun, exposed traverse leading to a strenuous 5.8 wide section with lots of face holds to help. Finishes with an exciting flaring finger section for 5 feet before returning back to bomber hands again. Better than any pitch on the center route I think. Used a 0.75, a 1, and a 2 for the first section, a 2 and a 3 to cover the traverse, a 0.5 and a bumping 3 (some like a 4 here but not at all mandatory) to cover the wide, and some 0.5 to 1 for the last section, big nuts are good here. Get on it! Nov 10, 2016