Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Chris Reveley or Tom Fender and Larry Dalke, circa 1973
Page Views: 6,397 total · 34/month
Shared By: Tamas on Aug 16, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

To the right of the Center Route on the Cynical Pinnacle is a beautiful, long, hand-sized crack that heads straight up the slab. This is the 3rd pitch of Turf Spreader.

P1. You can begin at the bottom of the gully, looking up 40 feet or so into a no-pro chimney, which Hubbel rates 5.8. We chose pro, and headed around the corner to the right, making our first pitch P1 of the Great Chimney. You can even avoid the chimney by heading up the face (5.8ish), to the bolted anchors.

P2 heads up the 11b roof, which begins with hands and moves smaller and smaller until you get around the corner and discover you'll need some bigger pro. Because of the nature of the roof, we set an anchor as soon as possible around the corner to reduce rope drag.

P3 is the long, 5.8, hand crack. You can break this up into 2 pitches or stretch out the rope. At the top are assorted slings, backed up with a hex.

You can continue up or rap from here.

I'd bring webbing and biners on this route to back up existing anchors. 2 ropes will get you down: one 200' rap down the face from the top of P3; one 100' back to the gully.

P1 just gets you there. P2 and 3 are fantastic.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot; doubles in hand sizes for the 5.8 crack.

Photos

Instead of heading around the corner to the offwidth you can also take the thin left angling crack up to the arete and a beautiful well protected 5.11 face. Oct 7, 2003
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
 
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
 
If finishing on Tough Turf I recommend traversing around to the right shoulder at the end of the 3rd pitch to set up a belay. Oct 17, 2003
Jer Collins  
 
Climbed this today. Used Sharpend's guidebook. At the end of the beautiful 3rd pitch handcrack (think high Sierras), we followed the obvious, horizontal crack leading left to the 3rd Belay on Center Route. Rated 10-something, we found it pretty straightforward with the last 15 feet to the dihedral being pretty sustained and exciting.

From here, we headed up the left side 10+ (actually like 9+) handcrack, turned the corner, and finished up the final right-facing dihedral of Wunsch's. Then finally up the bolt ladder. The guidebook said nothing of heading right.

The way we did it, it was 6 pitches and each one was fantastic.

Some thoughts:

-Don't place anything in the 1st pitch chimney until about to exit out the roof. There are two exiting skylights. I'm small...and unless you are much smaller than me, you Will-Not-Fit.

-After turning the roof, belay on small stuff just 3 feet above, or suffer the consequences. Above the roof, it's wide for a bit. We had a #3, 3.5 and 4 Camalot. This seemed fine.

-The pin midway on the traverse wiggled back and forth. It was fine, but just keep an eye on it.

[oops...meant to say - After the crux (2nd pitch) roof, stop to belay right above, not the chimney pitch.]

[Also, here is a report: arches.uga.edu/~davidste/]

Jer Dec 7, 2003
The fixed gear and all the webbing are gone at the top of P3, the 5.8 crack. There's a new bolt up there with a rap ring, and we added some webbing/link so you have two pieces to rap from.

Great climbing. Aug 28, 2004
The upper part of this route sounds great! The 11b corner is probably a little much for us - how easy would it be to aid it? Nov 23, 2007
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
James,

Quick easy aid. Probably be worth it, as it is only 10 feet of hard climbing that links up a good chunk of easier, excellent climbing. Nov 27, 2007
Jonathan S
Golden, CO
Jonathan S   Golden, CO
After climbing the Center Route, it is possible to rap in and climb the third pitch of Turf Spreader. Adds a 4th pitch of crack climbing to your day! Sep 20, 2013
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
A few notes: The first pitch chimney has no pro but has really fun, clean climbing for 40-50 feet until pulling over the chockstones, after which there is some easy and somewhat loose 3rd to 4th class before the roof pitch. The roof pitch surprised me with exactly where the crux was, but I won't spoil the surprise for you. The 3rd pitch has bolted rap anchors at the top. You can swing over to the rap anchors next to Center Route with a little creativity. It looks like it is significantly more than 200 feet back down to the top of the 1st pitch of the Great Chimney, so I didn't try this option. Nov 17, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11b
There are now two bolts at the top of the 3rd pitch 5.8 crack. No need to carry any webbing. Feb 28, 2016
Nick D'Hulster
California
Nick D'Hulster   California
Excellent climbing! I would highly recommend starting with Rubber Ducky and skipping the 1st chimney pitch. You get bolts to bring up your second, and you just drop off the huge stone to head up into the roof traverse on Turf Spreader the next pitch. Gives you an extra 10a that's pretty adventurous to start your day. Jan 19, 2018