Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cynical Pinnacle

Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buffaloes in Space T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
CMC Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Center Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Center Route P3 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Class Act S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Facial (aka Only the Lonely) S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hand Job Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey in the Forest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Off-width Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rap Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rising Crescendo T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Rubber Ducky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turf Spreader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twist O' Flex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wunsch's Dihedral T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Dan Trygstad, Dave Gouge, John Pfeil in 1986.
Page Views: 293 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Feb 28, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a fun route, but it feels difficult for its 10a rating. You could place your #6 Camalot as your first piece, but it is better to save it for above. A #5 will work as well. The starting crack gets smaller, and you gain a small ledge below a short offwidth crack. The offwidth will take your #6, and there is a small crack deep within. Above there is a small ledge where a steep hand crack begins. The crack gets thinner up high before you reach a good ledge. You can lay back at the cracks end. You can belay at a thin crack on the ledge if you want to see and communicate with your follower. You can proceed left, under a rock and through a small tunnel like area, and belay beneath the Turf Spreader crux roof.

Location

This route is well to the right of Great Chimney and starts by a mellow, angled ramp. You begin up a crack which is wide at the start. There is a fixed anchor near the end to descend or you can continue up Turf Spreader.

Protection

Standard rack to a #6 Camalot. There are anchors above Great Chimney near where the route ends.

Photos

Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
The start that Monty mentions is also a fun way to start Turf Spreader in the Winter when the chimney is iced up. Jan 14, 2017
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
I upgraded the old anchor at the top of the great chimney today with hardware from the BCC. Consider donating to the BCC.

Also, it is possible (and quite fun!) to climb this route without touching the offwidth. Start a few feet left of the traditional start following cracks and seams to a ledge with a bush, then step right on to the chock stone at the end of the OW. This variation is still in the 10a range, but some of the climbing is a wee-bit runout. This is a great option if you don't want to haul anything bigger than a #3 up the hill.

Jan 9, 2017