Avg: 1.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|Page Views:||349 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Julian Smith on Sep 4, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Begin climbing up either side of the chimney start. I think the right side is better even though it moves through a few loose flakes, but that is only because I ran into a few bees on the left side. The bees didn't sting too bad, so I accommodated them by climbing up the right side. Either start will deliver the climber to the same fate. About mid-height the crack widens and a slab forms on the right, with a right facing dihedral on the left of the off-width. Excellent climbing on the slab along with using the off-width thing at your left side will yield the top of Tail, which is much lower on the east end. On your left will be a stellar hand crack, which leads through steeper terrain to a higher tier on the east end of the Tail. Too bad this crack isn't longer, because it is so good. After a few moves with perfect number 2 Camalot jams, reach a nice perch to belay your partner up to.
To descend, locate a tree a few feet to the west that will allow you to rappel back down the south face to the Tail. The route might be a hundred feet tall if that. A 60 meter rope should suffice for rappelling back down with. You may want to bring a sling for the tree. Enjoy.