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Routes in Turkey Tail

Acoplopse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brush Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camera Obscura T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Consternation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Meat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drumstick Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Side Story T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Offwidth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eclipse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For Turkeys Only T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gobble This T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Search of Unicorns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Inner Reaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jello Party T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Johnny Lat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Side of the Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make the Cut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piece of Cake T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quiver and Quill T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rasmussen Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roofus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Helping T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shoo Kitty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Termination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkey Turd T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey in the Straw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Turkey's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimsical Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wild Turkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 104 total, 1/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Sep 4, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

On the east end of Turkey Tail's south face, just uphill or east of Cheap Trick rises the East Side Story. Another reference would be to describe this as the last major chimney looking thing as you are walking uphill from Journey to Ixtlan before the Tail dies out all together. From the chimney start, an off-width forms along the left side of a slab with a right facing dihedral on the left side of the off-width. The off-width/slab leads to a short, but stellar hand crack.

Begin climbing up either side of the chimney start. I think the right side is better even though it moves through a few loose flakes, but that is only because I ran into a few bees on the left side. The bees didn't sting too bad, so I accommodated them by climbing up the right side. Either start will deliver the climber to the same fate. About mid-height the crack widens and a slab forms on the right, with a right facing dihedral on the left of the off-width. Excellent climbing on the slab along with using the off-width thing at your left side will yield the top of Tail, which is much lower on the east end. On your left will be a stellar hand crack, which leads through steeper terrain to a higher tier on the east end of the Tail. Too bad this crack isn't longer, because it is so good. After a few moves with perfect number 2 Camalot jams, reach a nice perch to belay your partner up to.

To descend, locate a tree a few feet to the west that will allow you to rappel back down the south face to the Tail. The route might be a hundred feet tall if that. A 60 meter rope should suffice for rappelling back down with. You may want to bring a sling for the tree. Enjoy.

Protection

You would no feel foolish if you brought more than one #4 Camalot on this climb. You will feel comfortable with a few #3 and #2 Camalots as well.

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