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Routes in Turkey Tail

Acoplopse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brush Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camera Obscura T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Consternation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Meat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drumstick Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Side Story T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Offwidth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eclipse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For Turkeys Only T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gobble This T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Search of Unicorns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Inner Reaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jello Party T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Johnny Lat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Side of the Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make the Cut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piece of Cake T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quiver and Quill T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rasmussen Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roofus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Helping T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shoo Kitty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Termination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkey Turd T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey in the Straw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Turkey's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimsical Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wild Turkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Dan McClure & Doug Snively
Page Views: 12,786 total, 62/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb stands alone on a rock at the north corner of Turkey Tail, and can be seen looking left from Turkey Perch. This is only maybe 50-60 feet long, but it is very hard for its rating. It is an overhanging crack that climbs up jams through some weird pods and up into a squeeze chimney. Rap from bolts.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot.
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
It has been attempted a few times, David. Locals pretty strict with no more extra bolts at Turkey. Q&Q has always been a follow-clean-rap kind of route. Apr 10, 2017
What is the beta for getting permission to add a safe anchor that would allow for cleaning the route without risking cutting your rope on the top due to the wonderful placement of the rap station which is unfortunately very ill-placed for cleaning the route? Absolutely amazing route with everything from tight hands to OW, easy to protect, just a huge pain (and possibly danger) to clean. Apr 10, 2017
WadeM
Golden, Co
  5.10c
WadeM   Golden, Co
  5.10c
Your #2 is still in there looking brand new. Great route! A small handed individual with dual nut tools could maybe get that cam out.

Doesn't need much gear - packs a punch. Sep 15, 2015
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
My #5 Mastercam decided to umbrella a lobe near the bottom of this route right before dark. I spent a healthy amount of time trying to wrangle it out of the crack, but it was getting cold and dark. If you do manage to pull it out, send me a message and I will reward you for your efforts. Otherwise, enjoy your free cam. Oct 7, 2014
I did the first ascent with Doug Snively who named the climb. I thought he named it Quiver and Quill. Apr 24, 2014
James Wilkerson
Saratoga Springs, NY
James Wilkerson   Saratoga Springs, NY
Lost a practically brand new yellow Black Diamond Camalot (#2) in the bottom of the offwidth exit of this climb this past weekend, if anyone retrieves it I would be more than happy to come and pick it up as well as drop off a case of beer of your liking. Please contact me at jwilkers@mines.edu if you would be so kind. For future notice, top-roping or even belaying a follower up on top-rope for that matter will cause incredible rope drag and push your top piece deep into the crack. I would recommend leading this route if you wish to climb it. Jun 6, 2013
Hi Glen. I lurk here occasionally. Live in Montrose now and play in the San Juans. Old injuries preclude much hard rock jock, but I still get around. Dec 27, 2012
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
Great to see you on the Proj., Kevin! Long time no see. Hope you're doing well. Dec 22, 2012
I have done this route literally dozens of time, with 1 piece of pro at the bottom of off width 6' from the top with a no hands rest in the alcove mid-way. Placing bolts next to that is the pussy way out. I moved away from The Springs 20 years ago but still climb at the rocks on occasion, but if I saw a bolt, out it would come. I pulled many a bolt up there in the past, and I still know how. Dec 20, 2012
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
I've done this route twice, and both times the rope got stuck in the crack. The second time I placed a big stopper at the problem spot, but it got stuck anyway. I think the problem arises from the fact that the gear anchor point is deeper in the crack, after the angle decreases. I really think a bolted anchor out on the face would add to the experience of this amazing climb. I'm aware of the nasty bolt wars Turkey Rocks has already been through, and I know the earth may stop rotating around the sun if we do this, but come on guys, let's move on. I don't live in CO anymore, so I really don't care, but I do think it's the logical thing to do. Sep 14, 2012
RyanO
sunshine
 
RyanO   sunshine
 
Agreed with Monty on building the anchor under the turkey's head on the left. The rap anchor isn't bad, kinda scary if you have to clean the route on your way down, because a big enough swing unclipping the last piece could MAYBE give you a BIG swing out and around to the right. Best if your second cleans and you both rap off the right side. Stellar route - also agreed that more than 4 pieces guarantees failure. Jul 25, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
If you look closely, you can see 2 chopped bolts just left of the upper part of the chimney.... The whole building an anchor, then walking over to rap doesn't bother me at all, but that stupid Star Drive does. Sep 27, 2010
kirkadirka
Boulder
 
kirkadirka   Boulder
 
Agreed, the anchor location is downright retarded. It seems that a good anchor could be had up and left above the offwidth/slot section. Phenomenal route. Sep 9, 2010
Brian Weinstein
  5.10c
Brian Weinstein  
  5.10c
I thought this thing climbed a lot like Lichen Lung at Vedauwoo but with better feet. Great setting. Jimmy Dunn said that he put up the FA in a blizzard thirty years ago. I wonder if that was sans shoes with one arm behind the back as well. Aug 25, 2008
kevin fox
parker
kevin fox   parker
Looks like someone at least added chains to these anchors for the rap. Jul 6, 2008
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
  5.10c
This is such a cool line. Easy and solid gear makes it feel rather sporty. Big moves between sinker jams is the way to do it. It does not need much gear (0.5-4 Camalot, about 4-6 pieces), but be careful, the ground is never very far away. Freakin' badass, but something has to be done about the anchor situation. The present anchor is in a retarded location, and one of the bolts is a goddamn star drive. Nov 13, 2007
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
AC - Good Point. Only a suggestion from an old climber who is not in the best of shape. Nevertheless, this is a short route, and four pieces will protect everything just fine (obviously assuming they are placed correctly and with the right spacing). If you want to or need to sew it up, it will certainly accept more. Oct 9, 2004
"More than four pieces of gear guarantees failure". Well, it might also guarantee not hitting the ground; short routes such as The Quill don't get very far away from said hard surface you know. Perhaps you shouldn't lead it if you can't do it safely; and if your so solid on it that four pieces represents a safe style of ascent, then I would think you could stick in a fifth without guaranteeing failure -- nothing personal, just don't like to see wreckless climbing encouraged in a public forum from which a substantial population of influenceable young climbers may be absorbing their half baked notions. Sep 12, 2004
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
Walt - keep contributing routes to the site and set a high standard for providing good information. As you've found, this is a great thing for those who want to use it. If not, no worries.

As for the Quill: "to place more than 4 pieces of gear guarantees failure". Aug 29, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
This is a great route! Very pumpy but great fun. Watch the rope where the crack pinches down. It can get stuck there or force a piece of pro in forever. Jul 25, 2003
A few months later - clearly I was wrong. The S. Platte part of the site is more and more useful everyday. I guess I didn't realize is that what has happened here is that the guidebook has become a much more dynamic entity. If it sucks for a while, that's ok, because each new submission draws more attention and more input. I'm a little worried that that Komarnitsky fellow is trying to take over the world one climbing website at a time, but I'm psyched about this new resource. Nov 24, 2001
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Well, speaking specifically of this route: It seems hard at its grade, unless you find the little.... Ah, go climb it- and keep your eyes open when it gets hard. Nov 6, 2001
I'm not sure that South Platte stuff should really be part of this site, since I don't think anyone who contributes has climbed there much. I lived in the Springs for several years and climbed in the Platte a lot, but I would hesitate to try to make any kind of online guide for it. I think the site should stick to areas that it can do a really good job with - like Boulder Canyon, and leave larger/farther areas until we can put together something that does the area justice. Jan 1, 2001
I disagree with Walter, I'd love to see some more South Platte stuff cuz I really don't know much about the areas and I'd love to go climb some good ones there (like the Center Route....although I thought it was on Cynical Pinnacle rather than Cathedral Spires). Jan 1, 2001
My point was only that if you do something, you should do it right. There are thousands of routes in the South Platte, and hundreds of crags. Putting mediocre descriptions of a few random climbs, with lousy directions online is a waste of time for both the reader and the author. If you have a guide for Turkey Rocks, with, say, 90 routes and some pictures, thats good. If you have a couple random descriptions and nothing else, thats bad. Jan 1, 2001
I understand your point, Walt....but I don't use this site as a "guide" to the climbs, I use it as a supplement. I like to check out what others have contributed as fun or excellent climbs to do....then I get my guide or a friends and go do the climb. I think adding random climbs is great for someone like me who basically uses this site for ideas of possible climbs to do or to see what others have said about climbs I've done. My vote is to keep adding GREAT climbs to give me some more ideas of whats out there that I haven't climbed yet (a hellofalot, Im sure) :_) Jan 1, 2001
It's worth pointing out, though, that the stated purpose of the site is "We want to make it beyond obvious exactly how to arrive at a route, and where the route actually is." I believe the idea was originally to improve Rossiter's guide with some photos and solid descriptions. Adding stories and comments about routes is also useful, but seems inconsistent with the original spirit of the site. Jan 1, 2001
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
 
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
 
Hi, I added some of the South Platte routes to the site. The reason was that I thought they were great routes, and would be fun to go to if you are headed that way (which isn't too far from Denver/Boulder). Also, the area is great for crack climbing, it's that simple! When you pick up the South Platte guidebook, there are unlimited choices (hard to narrow down if you have never been there, or heard anything about it). I have climbed in the Platte quite a few times, but I am not any kind of expert on the area. I can just say that the routes I put into the site were excellent, and I would definitely go back and do them again. They are also quite popular with other people I have climbed with in the area (among other climbs). I was hoping that other climbers would add to this section so that I could see what others recommend in one of my favorite areas. I have some great pictures, and other routes I can add, but, I need a part for my computer for the pics. So, what does everybody think? A couple of side-notes...the bolt/chain anchors for Quiver and Quill are on the back of the summit, and you should rap down the right side of the formation (when looking at the climb from the ground), and it is just my opinion only that the climb is hard for a 5.10c. And, as I understand it, the Center Route is on Cynical Pinnacle, which is part of the Cathedral Spires area...this place is huge! Anyways, happy climbing, I'm off to hit some ice for now.... Jan 1, 2001
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
As the contributor of most of the routes for another "larger/farther" area, I wanted to put in my two cents. If Lumpy hadn't been up on the site, I probably wouldn't have thought much about it, but now, we've got every major formation there (with the exception of Crescent Wall), and several climbs on each, and I think as more people associated with the site get up there well have even more. Speaking for myself and my brother, we always climb a lot at Lump in the warmer months, and we plan on taking a camera and getting some good pictures of all the formations, so we can get closer to the stated purpose of the site as Walt noted. Sure, it seems like we get away from that sometimes, but its a work-in-progress. By next fall we will definitely have a very good, extended list inlcuding probably most of the two-star routes 5.11 and under at Lumpy. I tried to give detailed directions for every route I submitted, and good approach and descent beta for every rock--now all we need is the pictures. My point is, the site is only a year old, and its already booming--in a couple more years, it could be a really definitive on-line guidebook for some of these areas. The South Platte is another area I'd love to explore, and I don't see why it couldn't eventually become a thorough database. Jan 1, 2001