Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 868 total · 8/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Apr 12, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a three pitch route on the right side of Turkey Tail. It doesn't get done much, which is a shame. The first pitch is good, and the second is excellent.

P1 (5.10-). Begin just right of the bolted scoop on Journey to Ixtlan. Follow a wide crack past two horizontals. This crack becomes slabbier and thinner. From atop the slab, move left across thin face holds, and up the corner to a hanging belay off two fixed wires. This spot is also the top of the second pitch (slab pitch) of "Journey to Ixtlan." It's best to extend the belay to well-below the fixed wires, or the crux of p2 will be super awkward. You'll want a single set to #4 or #5 on this pitch.

P2 (5.11d). Past the fixed wires, a powerful sequence up into the tips corner (blue alien size) leads to excellent laybacking and stemming through the hanging dihedral. Undercling left out the roof, and belay off thin-hands gear. Watch rope beneath lip of roof.

P3 (5.7). Head up left past a small tree, and up the obvious corner. Top out by moving up and right to the summit.

Descent - find a two-bolt rap anchor on the far East (climber's right) edge of the summit area, and rap to the East. Walk east on a large ledge and rappel again off a slung block anchor. One 60m rope is fine.

Location

This is just right of Journey to Ixtlan , on the far right side of Turkey Tail. The crux dihedral on p2 is visible from the ground.

Protection

Single set to #4 or #5 (big cams only needed on p1) but take a good selection of RPs and cams in the blue and green Alien size.

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stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I needed to work this a few times, and then watched my Buddy Dennis Strom on sight the thing in 1999. In 1996 I watched another friend take a fall on some tat that was left by the FA. Removed that thing attached to an "historic hex". Jun 4, 2010