Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||1,302 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||blakeherrington on Apr 12, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
P1 (5.10-). Begin just right of the bolted scoop on Journey to Ixtlan. Follow a wide crack past two horizontals. This crack becomes slabbier and thinner. From atop the slab, move left across thin face holds, and up the corner to a hanging belay off two fixed wires. This spot is also the top of the second pitch (slab pitch) of "Journey to Ixtlan." It's best to extend the belay to well-below the fixed wires, or the crux of p2 will be super awkward. You'll want a single set to #4 or #5 on this pitch.
P2 (5.11d). Past the fixed wires, a powerful sequence up into the tips corner (blue alien size) leads to excellent laybacking and stemming through the hanging dihedral. Undercling left out the roof, and belay off thin-hands gear. Watch rope beneath lip of roof.
P3 (5.7). Head up left past a small tree, and up the obvious corner. Top out by moving up and right to the summit.
Descent - find a two-bolt rap anchor on the far East (climber's right) edge of the summit area, and rap to the East. Walk east on a large ledge and rappel again off a slung block anchor. One 60m rope is fine.