Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Harvey Miller and Bob Robertson, late 1980s
Page Views: 582 total · 7/month
Shared By: DavidHH on Nov 27, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Technically 4 routes to the right of Drumstick Direct is a pretty cool mixed line on the arete. If you rap off Drumstick Direct and look down to your right, you will see the 2 bolt anchor at the top of the climb.

Begin underneath an overhanging crack where you can get good fingers in a few spots, the crux here is probably negotiating the bushes at the start of the climb. Boulder up to a good 2 finger gaston which enables you to get your feet situated in a way where you can place a piece of gear in the crack once it turns vertical. Most mortals will appreciate a spot while getting in the first piece of gear. The crack pinches out and now follow 3 bolts to the 2 bolt anchor. It has fun climbing on great edges and good use of the arete.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt coldshut anchor and a #1 or 2 Camalot depending on how high you place it in the crack. All the bolts are modern.

Photos

- No Photos -
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
FA: Harvey Miller and Bob Robertson, late 1980s. Sep 23, 2013
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12a
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12a
Great route I thought! Crappy start, but it gets good after that. You can stretch to get a good stopper in at the start to protect those moves. Solid for the grade. Jul 1, 2018