Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,490 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Feb 26, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Start on P1 of Hummingbird's Way and climb that to the large, left-leaning overhang above, placing long slings before continuing up and left on to Wild Turkey proper. Pass the leaning overhang and stop below the large roof, placing some more gear and more long slings. An off-fists crack appears surprisingly on the right, and a "rest" can be contrived in this, surprisingly, before continuing through the crack out of the roof. Launch up into that crack on hand to fist sized gear and... and....
Well, at this point I'll describe what I saw, and then my experience. I saw a hand and fist-sized crack out to the lip. I saw icicles hanging in my face... I felt up into the freezing wet crack trying to find purchase on a frozen flow... Finally, pumping out, I under-clinged the roof, pasted a foot out to the right onto a bare overhang and pulled up into a knee-bar scum and then into a layback - some distance above my last piece of gear below the ice-flow. From there, I proceeded... to make some of the most improbable and fantastic moves I've pulled in a long time, and shall remember for some time to come. YMMV - depending on ice and style.
From a good rest just above the roof, the ice was passed. There is a short distance of moderate, but potentially exhausted climbing to a ledge, but it could be runout in the absence of more fist-sized gear. From the ledge, one can belay or step up and left into a left-facing corner (use long runners) and ride a predominantly 3-4" easy crack for 50 more feet to the final belay slot up top. Set a belay from 2- 3.5" gear.
The summit and walk-off can be gained via a scramble (5.6-ish, 20 feet) up and to the climber's right in that slot.
I totally encourage people to do this infrequently passed route - and advise to have a lot of "margin" Vs the assigned 5.10 grade if it is winter and might be holding ice.