Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 2,132 total · 18/month
Shared By: Tom T on Mar 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Start in a great crack and continue up "widening" terrain until you reach the first roof. Surmount the first roof (5.9) and continue into a large slot. Devise a way to the base of the next roof where cryptic moves set you up for the grand finale. I really had fun on this one.

Although other options are available, the best belay is right after the final roof. Extend your clove hitch 5 or 6' to tend the rope running through the final roof. A belay any higher could leave your rope stuck in the piece(s) you place at the final roof.

IMO: 4 star moves that are not obvious from the ground with some 2 star rock quality in places.

Location

Far east side of Turkey Tail...find the obvious double roofs.

Rappel off the east side of the formation or down climb the chimney to the north. The tat on the rappel was "crispy" and seemed old; we backed it up for the first person and left an extra biner.

Protection

Pro through 5" and several runners. I used 2 C4 #4 and 1 #5 and did some leap frogging. The belay I used took hand-size pieces.

Photos

Anus Herder
Colona, CO
  5.10
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
  5.10
The second roof takes a C4 #6! C4 #5 hardly holds, she's wide! This one's a tough but a rad climb, I set up a belay after the 2nd roof with 0.5-1 c4s. Climbed P2 up and left to find the rap bolts...bring a 70m, the first rap is 105 ft and the second 75 ft. Sep 11, 2017
Ron Pivo
Westcreek
5.9
Ron Pivo   Westcreek
5.9
Hey Anus,
Are you the one who left the twenty feet of rope dangling from the Roofus roof corner yesterday while rapping down? If so, you need to go back and clean up your mess. I'm tired of constantly cleaning up after the likes of you.

Nice MP alias. Sep 11, 2017
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
  5.10
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
  5.10
Meant to go back and clean that up. Didn't want to go in on the single bolt on the face, friends have passed doing such. Wanted to make sure nobody made the same mistake of rapping off the top with a shorter rope. Cheers. Let's keep it clean heading back soon beautiful area. Mar 19, 2018