Shoobertapotamai Feathers
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Bosier Parsons, Lea Linse, Nielsen Davis |
Page Views: | 999 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Aug 21, 2016 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead.
Details
No access from the Turkey Rock Ranch Estates neighborhood.
Description
This is a variation to Dark Meat that was previously unclimbed.
1) Climb Rasmussen Crack to the bolt/chain anchor, 5.10.
2) Climb the best part of Dark Meat up the chimney and past the roof and belay at the horizontal where the climbing begins to get easy, 5.8.
3) Step right a few feet and climb a steep, finger crack with some painful jams, a little crumbly rock, and a sequential crux. Where the crack ends, place a couple pieces, and finish directly up the prow of the buttress on slabby crystals for 20' with no protection. This is pretty exciting but definitely all there, 5.11-.
It's possible you could link the 2nd and 3rd pitches, but it was nice having my belayer within sight on the finger crack and not having any rope drag on the slab.
1) Climb Rasmussen Crack to the bolt/chain anchor, 5.10.
2) Climb the best part of Dark Meat up the chimney and past the roof and belay at the horizontal where the climbing begins to get easy, 5.8.
3) Step right a few feet and climb a steep, finger crack with some painful jams, a little crumbly rock, and a sequential crux. Where the crack ends, place a couple pieces, and finish directly up the prow of the buttress on slabby crystals for 20' with no protection. This is pretty exciting but definitely all there, 5.11-.
It's possible you could link the 2nd and 3rd pitches, but it was nice having my belayer within sight on the finger crack and not having any rope drag on the slab.
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