Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bosier Parsons, Lea Linse, Nielsen Davis
Page Views: 320 total · 11/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Aug 21, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a variation to Dark Meat that was previously unclimbed.

1) Climb Rasmussen Crack to the bolt/chain anchor, 5.10.
2) Climb the best part of Dark Meat up the chimney and past the roof and belay at the horizontal where the climbing begins to get easy, 5.8.
3) Step right a few feet and climb a steep, finger crack with some painful jams, a little crumbly rock, and a sequential crux. Where the crack ends, place a couple pieces, and finish directly up the prow of the buttress on slabby crystals for 20' with no protection. This is pretty exciting but definitely all there, 5.11-.

It's possible you could link the 2nd and 3rd pitches, but it was nice having my belayer within sight on the finger crack and not having any rope drag on the slab.

Protection

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot. Downclimb/rap off the north side to descend.

Photos

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