Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Turkey Tail

Acoplopse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brush Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camera Obscura T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Consternation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Meat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drumstick Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Side Story T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Offwidth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eclipse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For Turkeys Only T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fuzzy Caterpillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobble This T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Search of Unicorns T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inner Reaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jello Party T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Johnny Lat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Side of the Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make the Cut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piece of Cake T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quiver and Quill T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rasmussen Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roofus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Helping T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shoo Kitty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Termination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkey Turd T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey in the Straw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Turkey's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimsical Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wild Turkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,500 total · 15/month
Shared By: Chris Dawson on Sep 5, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Edit]

Captain Hook is located on the west face of the Turkey Tail (if Quivering Quill is on the north, and most of the routes on the south) around the corner from Quivering Quill. It starts on a large ledge and climbs the steep face on edges past four bolts. I thought the crux came passing the first bolt, but the pitch is sustained most of the way. The first bolt has a piece of grey sling on it. This is a fantastic face climb on solid rock (mostly).

Protection [Edit]

Four quickdraws. There is no anchor, so it's necessary to either lower off the last bolt, or clean it and move over to the raps for Quivering Quill. We set an anchor up high in a crack and toproped the climb.

Photos

Joe Leonhard
Denver, CO
 
Joe Leonhard   Denver, CO
 
If I remember correctly, the crack up top takes #3, 3.5 and/or 4 Camalots. Use a runner to reduce rop drag over the lip. Jan 31, 2007
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
Excellent, sustained climbing. Cranking up to the diagonal crack I broke off one of the bigger edges just below the start of the crack. Jul 31, 2007
Joshh
Denver, CO
Joshh   Denver, CO
Fun sport route. Do you think it would make sense to put an anchor in place of the 4th bolt? It seems like everyone just lowers off that bolt anyways...would make it more safe. Sep 15, 2008
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
As of 9/08, that last bolt that everyone lowers from is looking really worn. It spins and there is some sign of it pulling away from the rock. Sep 18, 2008
Someone chopped the last bolt, which doesn't change the safety or anything. The bolt was placed on top of the rock (where your feet stand hands free) and served as a one-bolt anchor. Currently you have to top out and build an anchor on hand-sized cams and then rap the Quivering Quill anchor. Dec 1, 2013

More About Captain Hook

Printer-Friendly