Avg: 3.5 from 32 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||7,462 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||Ben F on Nov 10, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionI almost forgot how sweet offwidths are. This gorgeous route begins as a left-facing dihedral not too far to the right of Drumstick Direct on the Turkey Tail. Without a doubt, this route gets 3 stars and has nearly everything you would want in a fatty. Hubbel's book does this route a disservice by only giving this route 2 stars. It seems that there is some sort of unfounded prejudice against cracks wider than 3' - yet another debasing of a noble form of climbing. If you liked Honeymoon Chimney in Castle Valley, Utah, then you'll definitely appreciate this proud line.
Begin in a *relatively* thin crack, where some hand jams can actually be found. Follow up the widening crack towards the 1/4" trinket placed on the right side of the dihedral. Place a 4-1/2" piece nearby. Flow past this section and enter a large pod. Take a breather here before you continue. The dihedral crack becomes thinner (hand to thin hands) before opening into a small chimney. Move up the chimney and onto easier ground. Past the chimney, there are numerous face holds and the crack gets thinner. At the roof, where the crack ends, you can either move left or right and move to the top. Find your own way off the top. Topos for this climb in the books, especially the top, are less than adequate - I mean they suck. I moved left to the base of a really low-angled crack system that looked no harder than 5.easy to set my belay.
My descent. Because my second was the last thing on my mind as a did this route, I neglected to consider that he is a fat ass. When he entered the first pod and tried to clean his #1 Big Dude that I placed in the back of the pod, it wasn't happening without a good rubbing of Crisco - if at all. At first this was funny, but after several minutes of hearing him grovel, grunt and use my name in vain while the sun was setting, I knew that I would be leaving some stoppers. I lowered him, had him put me back on belay, traversed back to the right and downclimbed to the first keyhole stopper placements. There is a set of anchors in the dihedral just to the left of Sidewinder about 50 or so feet of the ground if you only have one rope (50 m may reach?) and my stoppers and biners are still near the top of P1 for added convenience.