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Routes in Turkey Tail

Acoplopse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brush Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camera Obscura T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Consternation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Meat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drumstick Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Side Story T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Offwidth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eclipse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For Turkeys Only T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gobble This T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Search of Unicorns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Inner Reaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jello Party T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Johnny Lat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Side of the Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make the Cut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piece of Cake T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quiver and Quill T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rasmussen Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roofus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Helping T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shoo Kitty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Termination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkey Turd T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey in the Straw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Turkey's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimsical Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wild Turkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 997 total, 10/month
Shared By: James on Jan 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Consternation is basically a hand and finger crack. The climb ends where the crack flattens out. It is a one pitch climb but looks like you could continue for a second. We started the climb behind the boulder (came in from the right). Like Left Side of the Key, just as fun as many Perch routes but without the convenience of a walk off (read more adventure).

Location

This route is located on the north side of Turkey Tail. Hiking along the north side of the Tail coming from the Perch look for cracks in photo. To descend (option 1) turn left at top of climb, downclimb a hallway (maybe low fifth), now you will be at the starting ledge for Eclipse, Termination, and Live Fire. Go through an opening between boulders and turn left for easiest path. For option 2, rappel from slings at the top of Acoplopse (spelling?) (two cracks to the east).

Protection

Standard rack, gear for belay.

Photos

Gretchen 81
Longview, WA
  5.9
Gretchen 81   Longview, WA
  5.9
Definitely not finger to hand crack...offwidth to fist, to large fist. Awkward start to a ledge, from the ledge you have to get in an offwidth or some combo of face moves and using the crack. I can comfortably climb 5.7 and get up 5.8 with not too much more trouble, and I could not get off the ledge...I'd say this is 5.9. The downclimb listed in the book has some 4th class, maybe even low 5th. Aug 3, 2015
Steven Reneau  
5.8
Nice climb up a varying width crack, but stiffer than nearby 5.7s like Honky Jam Ass Crack and Left Side of the Key. My 2nd had 2nded Termination (5.8) the day before, and thought Consternation was harder. A #5 Camalot was very helpful for the top of the offwidth section low in the climb, protection to keep from hitting a ledge. To descend, we rapped from the anchors 2 cracks to the east (left), after backing up the 2 ~6 mm cords slung around a block with webbing (old; doesn’t seem to get much traffic). We didn’t like the looks of the steep “hallway” (5th class?) from the top. An alternate descent heads west (right) ~2-3 cracks, joining the Turkey Delight descent route, dropping through a hole beneath boulders to a low 5th class chimney. This route passes through an arch immediately west of the Consternation belay point, and we checked it out from below after a TD party had emerged here. Jun 2, 2010