Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Glen Schuler & Kevin Mclaughlin, '92
Page Views: 1,475 total · 13/month
Shared By: Monty on Dec 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the bolted arete variation to Wudamudafuka. Climbing this is not climbing Wudamudafuka

Start on on the finger crack for Wudamudafuka until it ends on a sloping ramp. Delicately reach out left around the arete and clip your first bolt. Balancy, thin face climbing leads you past 3 more bolts to a thin, perplexing crux getting to a hand jam under a chockstone on Wudamudafuka. Cruise up good jams to 2 coldshuts.

Location

Gobble This is located in the middle of Turkey Tail, right of Whimsical and left of Drumstick. It starts on Wudamudafuka.

Protection

Light rack, a couple mid-large stoppers, 1 of each cams #0.3, #0.4, #0.75, #2, #3, #4, 8-9 draws.

Photos

slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
I think this one is harder than I Turkey/Resurrection. Or maybe I Turkey is easier. Same thing either way. Dec 16, 2009
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
Hey Monty, Kevin McLaughlin and I put this variation up back around 1992 I think. Dec 16, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11d
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11d
I figured it was you guys. Great line, I really love the arete moves. What did you guys originally rate the route? I felt that it was on par with I Turkey, harder crux, but not as sustained. Dec 16, 2009
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
When we did it originally, I thought that the arete moves were a little easier than the initial finger crack section of Wud. I think Wud was rated .11+ so that's what we went with. We did the route again about a year ago and the upper part of the arete seemed harder than I remembered. I fully attribute that to being fat & old - .11+ seems pretty accurate. Dec 17, 2009
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
You definitely have to switch gears in a hurry, between that brutal slippery layback at the bottom, and the tweaky arete action up high. Makes for a really good route. Dec 17, 2009