Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m) Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Leonard Coyne, Henry Lester, Peter Mayfield, 1978
Page Views: 4,204 total · 22/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Feb 12, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

This route is located on the far right edge of Turkey Tail and is considered a classic.

P1. Locate a roof about 20' up behind a big pine tree. Step off a boulder, and make a long reach between cracks to a fixed pin. The crux section involves strenuous lieback/undercling moves on insecure footholds. It's much harder than it looks. Lucky for you, it's protected by a bolt. Another bolt awaits at the lip of the roof where you can get a rest. Pulling the roof is also strenuous, especially if you're short, then another bad rest, and more hard moves. By the time you get to the slab above, your toes will be thoroughly worked, and the final easy moves will feel hard. A 60' rap gets you back on the ground, but you might need to TR to clean your gear, or have someone follow.

I didn't think it was anything spectacular (I prefer splitter cracks), but it kept my attention and is solid for the grade.

As Per MP User Mark Rolofson

Pitch 2 ascends the slab with a very thin crack protected by RPs & small stoppers. Reach a horizontal break & clip a bolt. Traverse right to join Roofus at its semi hanging belay. We rated this pitch 5.10d.

Pitch 3 is the second pitch of Roofus (I spelled it Rufus in my 1984 & 1988 guidebooks). This pitch is rated .11d, but the finger jamming moves over the first roof are the hardest moves on the climb. It is easily .12a. It feels especially difficult after doing the first two pitches. There is a short 5.3 fourth pitch to the top.

Protection

Mostly thin, one hand-sized piece at the start, then everything else is fingers or smaller and at least 4 QDs for fixed pro.

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