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Routes in Turkey Tail

Acoplopse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brush Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camera Obscura T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Consternation T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dark Meat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drumstick Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Side Story T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Offwidth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eclipse T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
For Turkeys Only T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fuzzy Caterpillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobble This T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Search of Unicorns T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inner Reaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jello Party T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Johnny Lat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Side of the Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make the Cut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piece of Cake T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quiver and Quill T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rasmussen Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roofus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Helping T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shoo Kitty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Termination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkey Turd T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey in the Straw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Turkey's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimsical Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wild Turkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Leonard Coyne, Henry Lester, Peter Mayfield, 1978
Page Views: 3,522 total · 21/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Feb 12, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is located on the far right edge of Turkey Tail and is considered a classic.

P1. Locate a roof about 20' up behind a big pine tree. Step off a boulder, and make a long reach between cracks to a fixed pin. The crux section involves strenuous lieback/undercling moves on insecure footholds. It's much harder than it looks. Lucky for you, it's protected by a bolt. Another bolt awaits at the lip of the roof where you can get a rest. Pulling the roof is also strenuous, especially if you're short, then another bad rest, and more hard moves. By the time you get to the slab above, your toes will be thoroughly worked, and the final easy moves will feel hard. A 60' rap gets you back on the ground, but you might need to TR to clean your gear, or have someone follow.

I didn't think it was anything spectacular (I prefer splitter cracks), but it kept my attention and is solid for the grade.

As Per MP User Mark Rolofson

Pitch 2 ascends the slab with a very thin crack protected by RPs & small stoppers. Reach a horizontal break & clip a bolt. Traverse right to join Roofus at its semi hanging belay. We rated this pitch 5.10d.

Pitch 3 is the second pitch of Roofus (I spelled it Rufus in my 1984 & 1988 guidebooks). This pitch is rated .11d, but the finger jamming moves over the first roof are the hardest moves on the climb. It is easily .12a. It feels especially difficult after doing the first two pitches. There is a short 5.3 fourth pitch to the top.

Protection

Mostly thin, one hand-sized piece at the start, then everything else is fingers or smaller and at least 4 QDs for fixed pro.

Photos

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stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Redpoint 1997. Do all the pitches. This makes it three star. It is possible to stay right after Rufus all the way to the horizontal. Apr 6, 2008
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
Joe Crotty, TJ Brumme, and I replaced the bolts on both pitches with 4" stainless steel glue-ins. We were able to reuse several of the same holes, but a few of the other bolts broke while we were trying to extract them, so we had patch and drill a few new holes. Thanks to the BCC for supplying the hardware Jan 19, 2014
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
I climbed the entire route in 1981 with visiting British climber John Allen. I climbed it again in 1982 with Hugh Herr (who was the first & maybe only person to climb the route with prosthetic lower legs). I climbed the first pitch numerous times between 1981 & 1984.

This is one of the best .12a trad routes on the Front Range with varied climbing & no wide cracks. Jul 23, 2017
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
This is a scrappy pitch, delicate yet powerful. There is a hidden pin after the 2nd bolt (the glue-in). I was unable to get a biner through the hole, and I'd recommend just skipping it and standing up into the good undercling handjam where you can place a good overhead 0.4 Camalot. You could get a finger-size piece (I had a red c3) after the glue-in bolt, but the bolt is bomber, and the fall is clean. Fun route, but not a classic when compared to other 'classics' in the area. Dec 11, 2017
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12a
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12a
P1 is pretty good! More insecure than hard. If your foot sticks, you'll send. Jul 1, 2018

More About Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch)

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Fixed Hardware Report (9)