Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 121 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 19, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a unique climb that would improve a bit with more traffic. Also it is very height-dependent, as the foot ledge and hands lie a distance apart that might be difficult to reach for people shorter than 5'9".

Step down and right a meter from the starting dihedral shared with 'Live Fire' and up onto a boulder to reach the start of the rightward-rising crack and flake. A small stopper or nut can be placed just before committing to the climb. Smalll clings at the edge of the tips crack are positive at first and become 1/2 pad size after a move or two, where more gear (smallest of cams) can be had. Continue onward, with the challenge being to keep the feet within reach of the hands for smaller climbers, and the small edges become a good rail on a flake just before reaching the arete and turning the corner (crux) from the East onto the North side of the arete. A 2" piece can be placed here prior to standing up on the hand rail and getting on a ledge with a cord anchor (to rap down from). A second pitch goes up less interesting rock in the crack above.

Location

This route lies on the right side of a left-facing corner around left from the ledge at the start of Consternation and The Chop. The base is in the dihedral as mentioned, and the climb runs out the horizontal and flake that rises out and right to the arete from there. Turn the corner at the arete on the horizontal to reach a ledge and rap anchor.

Protection

Gear from thin to very thin. Take a double set of very small cams + a few to 1" and small stoppers to sew it up, which you want to do since this rising traverse takea while to get far from the ground.

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