Type: Trad
FA: FFA: Jimmy Dunn, 1975
Page Views: 17,061 total · 79/month
Shared By: Ben F on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

Whimsical Dreams is on the Turkey Tail. This route is fantastic and it does not let go of you until you reach the anchors at the ledge. It was a very humbling experience to make it through the 2 5.11- sections and then blow the 5.10 exit roof.

This climb is the first crack on the left side of the wall with all kind of chalk on it. It starts in a small, right-facing corner. Above, you will see a slot through a very small roof. After that, the crack system continues straight upwards into a left-facing corner that leads to a roof. Pull out of this and continue for maybe 15 feet to the anchors. This climb protects very-well. Keep a cool head, don't get to anxious on it, and milk your rests one you find them.

Protection

Bring stoppers, more stoppers, a set of cams up to a #4 Camalot. Don't worry, you get to dump the 3 and 4 Camalots low. You may want to double on 0#.75 and 1 Camalot sizes. There is an anchor at the top of the climb from which you can rappel using a 60 m rope.

Photos