Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,830 total · 58/month
Shared By: Lyle Monzyk on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


133 Opinions

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Description

This climb is on Turkey Rock.

P1. The first pitch offers excellent moves up disjointed thin cracks with great moves and superb protection. The start begins 10-15 feet right of a huge pine tree, at the base of the climb there is a good lounging rock. Begin the climb by face climbing up the incipient cracks, past a great mantle, and up to two steep small dihedrals. After the dihedrals, find a good ledge for the belay (this is a long pitch).

P2. For the second pitch continue up the chimney/crack system until you reach an 20' offwidth section. Place your #5 and go, or walk it up. For an offwidth its not too bad (7).

P3. The last pitch exits up a small 5.6 section. Walk off to the right. Last note: You can avoid the offwidth pitch by bringing two ropes and rappelling off some slings on the first pitch.

Protection

Bring double wires, and cams to #1 on first pitch, the off-width section will need a #5.
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
As my partner, the infamous Dean Miller stated, "this route defines 10a in the Platte." Nov 7, 2001
Lyle Monzyk
  5.10a
Lyle Monzyk  
  5.10a
Please help with the FA, was it Mr. Dunn, or Mr. Wiggins? Aug 15, 2002
This climb offers varied and sustained climbing, you might want to bring up an RP or two if you're at your limit and want to really sew her up---excellent pro the whole way even though it looks like the first 40ft are going to be spicy. Jul 22, 2003
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.10a
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.10a
When I first did this in '99 there were slings off to the right ( around the horizontal crack ) These are now gone. Continue up to the cables to rap off.

Great feet up the whole route! Oct 13, 2003
Chris Barlow
  5.10a
Chris Barlow  
  5.10a
As far as rapping off after the first pitch, you can also do a short downclimb to the large ledge ten feet lower than the cable belay and then traverse well to the right, around the corner. There is another anchor from which you can get to the ground with one rope (a 60m leaves you with a touch of down climbing). Sep 28, 2004
TBD
 
TBD  
 
Regarding the first pitch, I think this is one of those "no move is harder than 10a" routes. Great sustained and varied climbing. The gear is a little thin if you want to protect the mantle move directly, and if you don't, the fall would be unpleasant.

It doesn't get much better than this. Jun 27, 2005
Scott Bennett
Michigan
Scott Bennett   Michigan
You can rap/lower off the fixed anchor atop p1 (some nuts and webbing) with a 70m rope. Great route, a must do at the grade. Mar 4, 2009
Nelson
FT Carson
  5.9+
Nelson   FT Carson
  5.9+
A blue TCU protects the mantle quite nicely, there is a little pod that it fits in. Apr 6, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
This is a must do on Turkey Rock! May 6, 2011
Lyont72
Foco, CO
  5.10a
Lyont72   Foco, CO
  5.10a
Top notch route . . . lots of variation all over the climb. Posted a few photos, hope they help.

Happy sending Jun 6, 2012
Moritz B.  
 
We lowered off the anchors with a 60m rope - no problem. Apr 13, 2014
Nick Tripp
San Diego, CA
 
Nick Tripp   San Diego, CA
 
SUSTAINED and awesome P1! As a wide guy, the second pitch offwidth was lots of fun and a little too short.

Note that from the belay ledge after P1 (20ft above the rap tat) you can can make it to the summit with a 70m and careful rope management around the corner. If you're out of gear by the time you get there, fear not! You can make an old-school rope-anchor around a bomber horn. Sep 4, 2018